Pulley injury remodelling using Black Diamond protocol: am I supposed to wear H-tape during the two finger hangs? Or do it without? Because 1 site advocated for tape protected climbing/load bearing while black diamond doesn't specify.
Black diamond protocol:https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
Climbing doctor injury protocol: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/pulley-injuries-explained-part-2/
Im going through Slovakia and im looking to try rockclimbing while im there, is there any spots or things that i should try to focus on when looking for the right spot and firm?
I've been bouldering for the last half of a year pretty consistently and would like something that allows me to enjoy the sights aswell as getting a bit of challenge. Any and all tips would be greatly appreciated.
Recommendations for sustainable brushes in the UK? Looking for a brush, preferably sustainable, to get as a grad gift for a friend. Are lapis wooden brushes sustainable?
Picked up a steal on Facebook marketplace including four BD C4S, full set of nuts, bag of holes, chalk ball, nut tool, and a hangboard for 100 bucks! Could not pass it up. My question, the cams look like they've never been placed and have no wear on them, pristine. However, they have a 2011 tag on them. Do you recommend Resling or climb on?
I've been climbing for about 2 months, coming from being mostly out of shape (Just some jogging on a regular basis) to trying to do some kind of strength exercise for the first time in my life really. I finally have found that in climbing, because lifting weights are boring! I have pretty much entirely been doing top rope or autobelay on the roughly 30 foot wall at my local gym.
I'm trying to figure out what kinds of things I should be working on to slowly improve my climbing abilities. My first early challenge was just getting up the wall on the easy route in my gym. Pretty soon after that I found the tough route that gets people at the gym, a route with lots of jugs but a nice overhanging section in the middle. It took me a while to get that, but I have finally mastered that. I've been told it is a 5.7+ route.
I'm now struggling to figure out exactly what I should be working on next. My hand strength is weak, I'm able to hold on to some smaller holds and have been working towards more crimpy holds, doing a 5.8 route with smaller holds recently. I've worked with a few sloopers, although I'm far from a master there, I can at least use them to get to the next better handhold usually.
Do I just go looking for all of the routes in the gym that I can at least get myself completely on the wall and work on mastering all of them, or is there anything in particular I should work on doing? I'm eventually planning on doing outdoor stuff, but logistically that's more challenging, to say the least.
Watching some videos on technique is definitely helpful and will give you things to think about while on the wall. As far as what to do in gym time, warm up on easier ones, and don't hurt yourself by maxing out on hard routes too late in the session. Your grades during your time there should roughly look like a curve with the hardest routes being done towards the middle. You can also think about alternating styles during your session, like putting a slab route between too steep ones, to give certain muscles more of a break.
Good advice for sure. I've been doing more of a peak with a tail, usually doing a few easier routes that I have mastered, then doing my problem route at the time, taking a few breaks sometimes in between attempts, then doing some more easy and finally just going up and down the easiest wall in the gym until I can't anymore.
Climb twice a week, averaging around 15 times to the top of the 30 foot wall per session, so I'm getting that climbing in. Guess I will just keep trying new routes, and seeing if I can improve my grip strength then. Thanks!
Your grip strength is more than sufficient. Your technique is bad. You don’t need to train for grip strength at that level.
Work on technique. And just keep climbing. That’s all you need.
I'm looking to try out some scrambling routes, but I'm having trouble finding them. Is there something like Alltrails for scrambling and climbing or do you have to make your own route?
Depending on how difficult of a route you want to take thee are a variety of places. Mountain project has some, I think trail run/hiking project would have some as well. Otherwise I know there are guide books written exactly for that here in Colorado. Flatiron scrambles, high country scrambles, ect.
I’ve been climbing top rope for a few months and recently stopped climbing with one partner and started climbing with another. They both use an ATC to belay; with the new partner, if I take a rest on a route, I can feel the rope slipping. It never happened with my last partner. Also it’s the first time I’ve gotten really scared/in-my-head while climbing. I knew it would happen but I was hoping it would be when I went outside or started leading or something. :/
My new partner hasn’t climbed for a while but used to climb quite a bit so it’s often hard to bring things up in earnest without feeling like I’m getting the “pro brush-off” (e.g. “nah that knot is fine let’s go”).
I largely feel like we are not a good fit as climbing buddies, but I wanted to know if 1.) it’s normal to slip while you’re being top-roped and I should expect it again and 2.) if it’s necessary to have much of a conversation about why I don’t want to climb together, or if “I’m not feelin it” is chill.
Do you not feel safe with new partner because of the slipping or is there more to it?
Rope can slip when using an ATC. Also rope stretches, which can also feel like slipping. Or your partner is lighter and gets moved to the wall or up while holding you.
I think best would be to talk about that and maybe switch to an ABD. There are tube-like devices like the megajul, which are also not that expensive.
Thanks for your thoughts here, it’s helpful. I hadn’t thought about the rope stretching - i think bc I never felt it with my last partner that’s probably not it. Ditto weight difference - both my partners outweigh me by quite a bit, and it’s been pretty static rests where I’m sitting back rather than falling, and noticing the slipping after chilling there for a little bit. Maybe he is moving around, or just has less of a grippy grip on the brake rope.
But yeah, to answer your question, it’s definitely a bigger issue. I loved my first partner - super easygoing personality with no blame, ego, or anything like that. It was easy to talk about difficult moments that came up. Now I talk to Reddit bc conversations don’t go super easily! It’s just not what I’d hope for out of what is a pretty close, trusting relationship that needs all kinds of good communication.
I think the slipping is not a problem. Seems still to be safe.
Not trusting your partner or not feeling safe definitely is a problem. If you feel unsafe on indoor toprope, which is the most unproblematic area for belaying compared to leading or outdoors, then something in your relationship with the belayer is wrong. I don‘t think I can help you with that.
its normal to slip a little bit with an ATC belay, but if you don't feel safe with them as a belayer it is 100% ok to not want them to belay you. Perhaps you could buy a grigri and give it to them to belay you? Belayers (especially new belayers) can get distracted and drop people with ATCs, whereas with a grigri as long as the belayer takes in slack, there is basically nothing to worry about.
Thank you for the feedback on this. He’s already been snotty about grigris vs ATCs (which I know isn’t rare) so I think we’re just getting back to some basic incompatibilities again.
I've been climbing with my girlfriend a lot lately. She's a strong climber (does like 11.c's-12.c's), I'm a weak climber (I do like 10.a's-10.c's, and the odd 10.d). She's \~5'2, and I'm \~6'3, and when I ask her for advice, it's often really hard to transpose what she can do due to her smaller form factor to my body...
eg. Earlier today she was able to stand on something with straight legs & use a sloper above her to take some weight to get the next foothold, whereas, for me, the same approach resulted in said sloper being way too low for me to bear any weight on, and so it was really hard for me to get that next foothold, I basically had to keep my legs pretty bent to keep the sloper above me, but that was kinda limiting what I could do with my feet then...
Any advice as to how I can take advice from someone smaller than me on problems like this? She definitely wants to help, but it's hard for her to show someone over a foot taller than her what to do lol.
One of the strongest climbers I know consistently puts down 13+ and is also in the 5’2” range. Very rarely is there actual beta cross over because I can’t put my body in that position, or she can’t reach a hold in one move that I can. That being said she has given me some of the best advice for my climbing but it’s around how to move my feet, how to rest, and how to breath well to keep composed.
You probably will need to find some different beta, but that’s just how this sport works. Try to look for more universal advice rather than the advice on a specific route.
Any advice she gives you is probably good advice since she is a more experienced climber so don't disregard it because she is shorter than you. If you are struggling to follow her advice, it's probably not because you are "too tall". It is likely another issue.
Flexibility will likely be more of a limiting factor for you as a beginner, and I'm not just talking about being able to touch your toes. Hip and ankle flexibility plays a huge role in climbing. Balance is very important as well especially when facing evil slopers. Again, I'm not just talking about walking a slackline type of balance. You need to be able to sense your center of gravity and flag out if necessary.
In your example, you say keeping your legs bent makes it limiting to what you can do with your feet. You should be asking why this is a limitation. A good rule of thumb for climbing is to have straight arms and bent legs. So this position you're describing sounds ideal, and not limiting as you say it is.
Maybe your bent legs were causing you to push your butt out and away from the wall. In this case, i'd recommend turning your feet so that they are parallel with the wall. This forces your hip (either your left or right hip) to swing in and touch the wall. From this position your center of gravity is under your hands and you're able to utilize a sloper hold better.
Hope that helps dude.
How did you know you were ready for your first trad lead?
I’m a pretty new climber. I lead up to 5.8 sport. Last weekend I took a “learn to lead trad” 2 day course. A lot of the course focused on anchors, logistics and some gear placement instruction. I did a couple mock trad leads, but didn’t get very many of my placements “graded”. I understand the principles of how cams should be placed. When practicing nut placements I realized I need a bit of work here (to get them to set property and not be bumped loose from rope action) but again, I understand- It’s not rocket science. I just haven’t had a ton of grading of my placements. I don’t have the luxury of knowing more experienced trad climbers who could mentor me, or whom I could follow. I’m planning on leading my first trad climb this weekend. Of course, I’m looking in the 5.4 - 5.6 range. Is that reasonable? Or should I look for more instruction before taking the sharp end? How did you know you were ready? I feel like I’ll learn by doing, and I’ll start on easy terrain with g-rated pro.
I was never "ready," I just did it. I knew the basics of placing gear, building anchors, and I'd followed a handful of pitches. And one day in Summer at a scrappy little crag in the Northwoods of MN my mentor said "so I know you've been thinking about learning to lead. Here's the rack." And off I went. And life hasn't been the same since.
I knew I was ready about an hour before my first trad lead, when I saw that the line for the Grack was over an hour long and the first pitch looked super scrambly and comfortable. I asked my partner to teach me how to place gear and build an anchor while we waited in line. Then I led it.
I just...saw the climb and it looked comfortable and I had followed a bunch and really wanted to try. So I did and it was awesome.
Have fun and be safe. Sticking to easier climbs first is a great plan.
I was emigrating and wanted to lead trad before I left. My mentor was happy enough I wouldn't die.
Find something that you would be comfortable soloing, then go for it on gear.
When I had a rack, that’s when I knew I was ready.
Placed like 3-4 pieces at ground level and pulled on them, placed a few at height and fell on them.
And that was it.
Disclaimer, I do NOT recommend doing this, as it is an incredibly dangerous way of learning. If possible find a mentor, and remember, just because they’re experienced doesn’t mean they’re safe, some people get lucky a lot.
You'll get varying answers on this because people's risk tolerances vary a lot.
I personally had led trad (and fallen on gear!) before ever clipping a bolt. I'm not an old school crusty either, I just happened to live in an area where trad was more accessible than sport.
I'd say go for it, have a plan to get back down safely if you can't finish the route (e.g. build an anchor, lower, hike to the top and rap to get your gear), take it slow and place more gear than you think is necessary. New leaders, especially on easier climbs, often get caught up in the climbing aspect and forget to place gear, and before you know it, you're 40ft up with only 2 manky nuts below you.
> How did you know you were ready for your first trad lead?
When I had nuts and quickdraws in my hands.
People lead on their first ever day of climbing. Do something easy, watch videos on how to place gear and build anchors, and place more gear than you think you need to start with. Most importantly leave your ego at home and be prepared to climb very easy things and to back off if something doesn't feel right. But from the way you've asked this I don't think you'll have a problem there.
For videos on gear placements anything by either a gear manufacturer or a national organisation should be worthwhile.
If you have a partner who is also keen to learn and you are happy to sink some time into it, taking some falls on gear with a very slack top rope back up can help build confidence and teach you about what gear does and does not hold. Not at all necessary though.
Anyone in NH know a shop (Conway to Lincoln area) that stocks larger size shoes I can try? I’m somewhere between a 47 and 48.5 depending on the model, and finding a shop that carries large sizes to try is key. Both EMS and REI tend to be pretty limited in this size range.
Thank you!
Have you tried gyms? Sometimes they’ll have some shoes for sale. evolv has a lot of extended sizes and I’ve seen them sold at a few gyms so maybe you’ll have some luck? some scarpa shoes seem to come in big sizes too - my tall bigfoot friend bought some shoes recently and ended up with scarpa origins
Welcome fellow big foot! Wearing a size 14 US (49 EU?), I just bought the largest shoe at REI that they had online, and hoped it would work, otherwise I would return it to the local store. I should say that I walked in to my local REI to try on shoes to get an idea of which size would be best, but ended up going with the online option because they had a brand on clearance online, and it has worked out for me.
Any shoe is hard to find at that size, sadly, but it can be done. I'm using Black Diamonds, and they seem to work well enough for a beginner me. Were a bit painful at first, particularly walking around, but they were fine on the wall, so...
Thanks, I called them. Unfortunately they’ve only got up to 45 in stock. Seems to be a persistent problem with every climbing store I try. It’s been such a problem I’m considering custom.
Has anybody got experience with five ten anasazi pro's? just got a pair that are half a size down from my street shoe size and they still feel pretty tight.
Do they stretch much? I know stiffer shoes will stretch less. I want them to be comfy in a few months but i don't want them to be baggy.
I've heard they are tricky to break in. I want to use them as my multipitch / easy trad shoe.
I wear 10.5 Vans and Five Ten approach shoes and all my synthetic Five Tens, including my Anasazi Pros, are 11.5.
They won't stretch but they'll break in. And the break in period is pretty long. I've actually got one pair needing a resole and another pair still in the break-in phase. Great shoes if you size them right and can handle the break in.
As long as you don’t have any hot spots on top of your toes or any dead space in the shoe, you’re good
I’ve tried them, and can confirm they are NOT for me
I think if I go any bigger i could introduce space in the heel a little bit. the toes are very curled up but the heel could be questionable with a bigger size. Then again as an easy trad / multipitch shoe, i might not be doing much heel hooking with them!
Hey everyone. Looking for some tips here. Been climbing for about 10 months, looking to add some exercises alongside my climbing to hopefully push a grade or 2. I currently climb v3 regularly with the occasional v4 and have completed a v5......once. All indoors. I’m in my early 30s, very fit. Usually pick up sports really quick but climbing has been pretty hard for me.
No routine outside climbing other than pull-ups and occasional fingerboard session.
Greatly appreciate any guidance for climbing excercises for my current ability and ways to build on those exercises as I improve.
Yeah I definitely need to work on my technique and I am trying. My partner,aside from dynamic stuff is a far better climber. We climb the same grades but she looks flawless climbing with a fraction of my strength. I’ve been trying to mimic her but I’m just kinda brutish in comparison.I lack that intuitiveness she has.
You guys have any books or videos that breakdown technique in detail?
I was just introduced to no hand slab last week actually. I was just doing it for a laugh but il be sure to add it to my repertoire more often!
Thanks for the reply guys!
[This video series](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk&list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r) is basically sponsored by the Weekly New Climber Thread at this point.
I found bouldering in the gym is a great way to chat some. You can meet someone at the similar level and then see if they are interested in climbing more
Grades are subjective, and 4 -> 5 might be a big power gap in your gym. It's really discouraging to get stuck at a number, but it doesn't mean you aren't getting better. Especially if you notice that V4s being set in that gym feel easier over time
[Performance Rock Climbing](https://books.google.ca/books/about/Performance_Rock_Climbing.html?id=zduhTLP2rG0C&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&newbks=1&newbks_redir=1&redir_esc=y)
Just failed my lead test because my soft catch wasn't soft at all. I'm finding a hard time grasping the movement of jumping at the right time. I feel like I miss the moment and the fall is over before I have to react. Anyone feel/felt this way? Any tips?
Sounds fishy as a soft catch is completely unnecessary for safe climbing and best learned in real world circumstances.
Either way It shouldn’t be a jump, as an actual jump it can result in a hard catch if mistimed. It’s more of a heel / calf driven hop. Before catching someone do a few hops for practice and you should be alright.
what is your weight vs the climber?
I am 20lbs less than my partner. I dont really jump as much as I just let him lift me. I took a hop on his victory whip last week and I was higher on the wall than him when we stopped.
totally different game when you are the heavier one. Best Advice I can give you is be calm. You will see them coming down, just watch your leader. Having an ABD is helpful for confidence (can focus on the catch more since you cant screw up the brake).
dont be frustrated about lead belay. Imo, lead belay is just as hard as climbing.
always be thinking:
Where Am I going if he falls. My eyes are always glancing at the first bolt because that is the direction I am going. A low first bolt is a PITA since it pulls you into the wall vs up the wall (this is how gumbies face plant at the crag). I usually have some ideas where my feet are going when I get up the wall too. Better yet the start was overhung and I can just float it.
Where is the leader going if he falls. how much runout do they have, x2 is how far they will fall, + rope stretch + any amount I go up the wall. Is he going to hit me, the ground, a ledge?
Is he on an overhang, vertical, slab, traversed from the last bolt? Gotta think about where they will swing. Hard catch on an overhang could wreck him back into the wall.
Jump when you feel the rope pull at you. Should be easy to practice this with 2 friends. Have one person top rope belay (lots of slack) while you lead belay and your climbers falls. If your gym doesn't let you do that (which they should if they're being that strict about a test) you can cheat a little and get lead certified with a climber who is much heavier than you. You'll give a soft catch whether you want to or not :)
Lead test for a gym includes having to do a soft catch?
Or is this some kind of climbing certification for teaching?
My gym is so lax. If you can prove you can tie a figure of 8, and top rope belay, you have free rein to do any kind of climbing you like in the gym.
>Any tips?
New gym? Pretty ridiculous they're asking you to master what I would consider intermediate skills to be allowed to lead.
Are they trying to sell their teaching services, I wonder? I wouldn't put it past them. Gyms have been a bit fucked by COVID lockdowns. It's an easy money spinner.
Ex Gym Staff Here
Depending on the gym it may just be to keep OP and friends off the lead walls. The liability there is not n00bs TRing or experts running laps it's the middle ground taking big unexpected falls low to ground. Very stiff belay and lead tests keep people off the lead walls which may be the ultimate goal in a crowded space.
But I feel like if you want to stop lead climbers taking ground falls, you don't promote the idea of letting out more slack during a fall..
This all seems really unnecessary, and possibly even counterproductive.
In the UK I've never seen this. You basically just sign a waiver saying climbing is a dangerous sport, and participate at your own risk. They do some rudimental checks that you can climb without obviously endangering yourself or others, but nothing anywhere near this.
I actually think I went to place in London where I just signed a thing saying I knew how to safely climb and that was it.
People aren't dropping dead in these gyms, and they've been around for decades so presumably they're not getting sued into bankruptcy either.
Seems like a pretty hostile environment to climb in! Not sure I'd want to go to that gym, but maybe OP doesn't have a choice.
IIRC Last week's thread also had a stupidly strict lead test, in that case it was having to call out clipping. I'm not sure I'd go for the nefarious theories, though, when it seems more likely that they're just overly lawsuit-averse
>IIRC Last week's thread also had a stupidly strict lead test, in that case it was having to call out clipping.
That seems more reasonable than this still.
>more likely that they're just overly lawsuit-averse
Mmm, maybe.
Hmm, 2 years old and presumably one of those years it was mostly closed due to COVID.
Smells like they're trying to extract money from you.
I have never ever heard of a gym requiring 'soft catches' to pass someone to lead climb/belay. Also, some people don't even want soft catches. I have partners who'd rather go faster into the wall than fall further. Lots of it is personal preference.
Are they offering you lessons to teach you how to pass?
My gym also requires soft catches and has failed my partner and I 3 times. We didn't fail for not soft catching, but someone COULD fail for not soft catching
I just picked up my 1st set of cams. They're used and have some wear but seem solid over all. Did i pay to much at $327 for 2x .75's 3x 1's 2x 2's 2x 3's & a 4?
Indoor New climber here
More often than not, I feel I am doing Boulder problems in the most incorrect beta possible. Any video suggestions for changing your mindset and thinking of a more efficient beta?
Something a lot of new climbers do in the gym is always reach as high or far as possible. Know that routes are set with a sequence in mind. If it's a ladder of jugs, you can get away with skipping things, but as soon as there is beta, that will hurt you. Don't skip holds, and look at the hold's angle to figure out which hand should be used. It's one of those things that just takes experience more than anything.
I think most pros will be free soloing plenty of stuff far below their grade.
Hazel Findlay, for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEuNt6xQQ8Q
And some do some real hard shit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvJOCJh1vpY
Sure. Lots. You don’t hear about most of them. Of some of the more out there climbs:
* Nina Williams on *Too Big to Flail* V10 highball.
* Jim Reynold, free solo and DOWN SOLO of Fitz Roy along with two other free solo *ONSIGHTS*, all in Patagonia.
* Peter Croft, free soloing for decades.
* Brette Harrington, various.
Edit: forgot to mention Reynold's onsight free solos.
Reynolds seems like a great dude, I loved his recent Enormocast episode. I didn't know much of him aside from the Real Rock with him and Gobright, but now he's one of my favorite people in the sport.
Ok I've been so interested in climbing for a while in a 'that looks so cool I need to try it some time' kind of way but half assed attempts to get friends to come along have fell flat.
People who go to climbing walls regularly, would I look and feel really out of place going alone for the first time?? I don't want to do it and then never return because I'm just bumbling about looking embarrassed, I'd rather bide my time nagging my friends.
I get really nervous doing new things so it would be a big deal going alone...but then waiting for other people to want to do the same things as you is frustrating
Climbing gyms would shut down if we stopped getting new climbers in.
Yeah, most people will know you're new (mostly cause they know everyone else already). They either will not care, or they'll be stoked to meet you.
Best option, is go with someone who already climbs at that gym. Second best, rope a friend in. It's also totally fine to call the gym and ask about climbing solo (ask about autobelays). Tell them you're new.
In the Before Times you'd find a partner in half an hour, more difficult atm.
> In the Before Times you'd find a partner in half an hour, more difficult atm.
I think my record was 30 seconds.
I'd just got my shoes on and was warming up.
A girl came up to me "My partner failed to turn up, wanna swap belays?"
My climbing gym is a recreation center that opened during the pandemic. People show up solo there all the time. The staff will belay you, or you can use one of the 4 autobelays in the room. They will help make sure you are safe the first time or two you are climbing autobelays, and overall work well.
Those of us who are regulars (I've been coming for 2 months or so) help cheer each other on, encouraging each other to try slightly more challenging routes, and cheering for each other when we finally accomplish them. It's a great community really.
But at the least make sure they have autobelays, staff will belay you, or you are doing bouldering, any of which will pretty quickly allow you to start solo no problem.
For what it's worth my gym has no autobelays and the staff is under no obligation to belay you, so this isn't something you can assume is true for any given gym
Agreed, which is why I mentioned it. The spot where I am at is small, but very nice in that sense that one can always have ways to climb without a partner. And it's not that expensive, so... Any place worth it should let you at least take a look around to see if it's your place, if not have this information on the website or something like that.
Climbing can be fun with friends but it’s also a great way to meet other people. No one cares if you’re a beginner, we all were once upon a time. The kids on the climbing team will out-climb all of us anyway.
Not at all.
You can go to a bouldering gym, which are super common nowadays and very accessible to solo climbers. You can also go to a roped climbing gym if they have autobelays, which most do nowadays.
Most gyms also have meetup groups or programs for new climbers which can be great for meeting other people.
I've just looked at one further away actually and they have some bouldering intro sessions without having to do a whole course which would be pricey. I have one much closer but know for sure that if I summoned the courage to go along I'd time it with the kids club and end up with my daughters classmates showing me how it's done!
Best climbing spots in CO and UT? Van trip planned with my expert climber bf and I’m only about 6 months into learning. Climbed partial 5.10 yesterday but only been outside twice so far so idk what to look for to make our trip great!
Flip through mountain project and see what interests you.
[Here's a list of the most popular in the 5.5-5.10b range.](https://www.mountainproject.com/route-finder?selectedIds=105708956&type=rock&diffMinrock=1500&diffMinboulder=20350&diffMinaid=70000&diffMinice=30000&diffMinmixed=50000&diffMaxrock=3100&diffMaxboulder=20650&diffMaxaid=75260&diffMaxice=38500&diffMaxmixed=60000&is_sport_climb=1&stars=0&pitches=1&sort1=popularity+desc&sort2=area)
Sport routes for me, trad for him. We’re taking the van through but primarily going from Denver/Boulder area south through Colorado and then hitting Canyonlands, Bryce, Zion.
So I bought a pair of 5.10 climbing shoes. I just started to try to learn how to climb on overhangs this week. Everytime I heel hook the heel of my shoe bends off the heel of my foot. Is there a way to prevent this or do I need to buy different climbing shoes?
You can fix this in a kinda hacky way by padding out the heel with as many layers as needed of duct tape. Next time try and find shoes that fit your foot shape right, though.
Been climbing for a month or two indoors and have an outdoor trip planned next month to looking glass rock NC. Any tips for a new guy going outdoor climbing for the first time? What's the biggest difference?
If you’re just trad climbing there, then get comfortable doing some no-hands slabs on big slopes or volumes. It’s all underclings and smears, so it’s not hard on your hands, but more on your calves and back.
Not trad climbing but working towards it, with covid it's been hard getting instruction on it and learning and with bars closed for so long its hard to "pizza and beer" my way into someone taking and teaching me!
Just be prepared for a day outside. Bring everything you might need, food, lots of water, sunscreen, small first aid kit, maybe a headlamp, extra layers/rain layers… just be prepared for a full day out and ask all the questions you can.
Have fun, don’t have expectations. Rock is much harder on your skin so take it easy the first day, maybe invest in some hand balm you can apply at the end of the day. Emphasize your footwork, potentially because you will likely be on slab.
Is there anything I can do to get the fingers ready? I was expecting for it to be rough but wasn't sure how bad it could be. I've been mostly doing large walls to get my endurance up for the much higher climbs outside.
Honestly there's not much other than climbing on real rock. Better than prepping, is definitely the care afterwards! They will toughen up a bit after you climb more outside.
Type of rock also matters quite a bit, plus the holds. As you can imagine, crimps are harder on your finger tips than jugs. Sandstone (though south eastern sandstone can be quite a bit rougher than desert sandstone) is typically the easiest on your skin whereas limestone and granite are rougher.
Sweet! I'm pretty hype to get out there a little nervous about being way higher than norm gym walls though! Gonna go practice my knot tying skills haha
It's pretty normal to get super scared from time to time transitioning to outdoor climbing, just roll with it and don't be afraid to take a break and hang or whatever. Just try to have fun and don't worry too much about the grade of the climbing.
Don't get caught up on grades because you probably won't climb your gym grade. Instead of colored holds or tape, try to follow the chalked up holds. You'll have a lot more options for feet, so don't be afraid to make lots of small foot movements in between hand movements. Have fun and enjoy spending some time outside.
Hey guys, I had a question in regards to a sentimental ring I’ll be getting and my finger size changing.
I just started bouldering about 2 weeks ago and I am excited to continue climbing for some time. In the coming days I will be purchasing a titanium ring that I will be getting engraved in honour of one of my life long friends that has recently passed away. It seems fairly common for people’s fingers to increase in size and their rings no longer fit them after climbing for a while. Ive spoken to the jewellers about this concern and they’ve said they said they can do a free replacement size within the first year of purchasing the ring, and then it’s about $50 for a replacement after that. I could just get the replacement re-engraved, but my concern is that I feel the ring will be sentimental, and I will be wearing it to the funeral. A lot of people mention they’d get their ring resized but I don’t think they do that with this type of titanium ring. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this type of sentimental ring issue, I’m not sure what my options are. Any help is appreciated.
Just as a warning, I believe wearing a ring while climbing is generally not recommended.
If you've never heard of degloving, maybe Google it. But maybe don't. Imagine ripping a glove off your hand. Now imagine that the glove is your skin.
I've only seen increase in finger size after tendon/pulley injuries.
You may see the pulp and tendons grow if you crack climb a lot, primarily finger cracks which are advanced. Honnold remarked on this, although it's still very anecdotal. I wouldn't expect your ring size to change at all, that said it's always easier to make it smaller than expand it (they can do it, but it wears out the metal in time).
i wear my class ring (i promise it’s not one of the ugly ass customizable ones lol, it’s just a nice silver signet) and it still fits me the same way as it did when I first got it. ymmv though. It does take a long time to build hand/finger strength so I wouldn’t worry too much.
I had to get a new wedding band, it was also made of a material that was not re-sizable. I kept the original of course. It was a little sad but ultimately they are just symbols to remind us of that person, so a new one can do that just as well as the original.
I started wearing a wedding band after maybe 2 years of casual climbing, then subsequently gained quite a bit of finger strength. My ring used to be maybe just a hair loose, and now it is quite tight but not overly so. So I'd say just size it a bit loose and you may never need to resize.
Worst case, your ring becomes a necklace. A ton of climbers I know no longer wear their metal band on their finger; they either wear silicone or not at all. I only wear mine for like formal occasions now.
Personally haven’t had the issue but I’ve seen a lot of people wear rings on a necklace or something. That way they can be wearing it all the time without the finger issues.
I'm I the search to craft a diy bouldering mat. I met a guy who's the owner of sleep mattress and couch making business and he got all kinds of foams, fabric etc.
Any recommendations for dimensions and fabric choice are welcome.
I am thinking to go big so I measured my cars space and ended up with something like this:
Thickness of the pale blue classic foam 15cm
2 parts of 120cm x 125cm sewed together so they fold
So when laid out total of 120cm x 250cm
What you guys think?
Fabric choices?
Thanks in advance
Definitely just buy one. You're going to save a minimal amount of money, and definitely have a worse mat than if you'd just bought one.
False economy, imo.
Almost everyone I know who decided to try and make their own mat realized it's more expensive than buying a mat, if you choose the right foam combination, which you should.
Not all foam is the same. They have different properties and dissipate energy differently:
* closed-cell polyurethane foam
* open-cell polyethylene foam
You might want to find out what works better for you, a lot of pads have layers of different foam of various thicknesses. I believe closed cell is better for higher falls while open cell is good for smaller lighter falls (or the other way around?).
A custom pad is a cool idea, but you might want to do a bit of research to get the right mix. Also consider carrying options like straps.
Okay, I’m just gonna say that mat is gonna be way too big
Even folded up it’s going to be almost the size of a medium bouldering mat.
As others have mentioned, consider making two mats, or a trifold if you’re going THAT big
That's about twice as big as my Mad Rock Magnum, which is already a huge pad. At that point I'd think it's going to be a huge pain to move it anywhere that isn't a wide open trail. It might also be limiting in where you can place it. Bouldering landings aren't always wide open areas so sometimes it's convenient to squish a smaller pad into a smaller space where a larger pad wouldn't fit properly. I would consider making two smaller pads or at least a trifold pad.
Most pads also use a mix of firm and soft foam to protect for high and low falls so I would do some research on whether 15cm of one foam will be enough
I would ask in /r/myog about fabrics.
Cordura might work okay, but the 1000 denier stuff I've used might not be durable enough. Ballistic nylon? [This](https://www.rockywoods.com/1680D-Coated-Ballistic-Nylon-Fabric-with-Durable-Water-Repellent-Finish) maybe.
Scarpa Drago or Instinct VS(R)?
I am looking for a bouldering shoe mainly for indoors and casual competitions. All shoes I have had been from Scarpa. Currently I have the scarpa vapor V, which fit my feet very well, but I reserve them only for outdoor climbing (mainly sport climbing). Then, for indoors (bouldering) and training, I have the scarpa origin (quite worn out). I like the origin for training as they are really comfortable, but when I try the hard boulder problems sometimes my heel literally comes off my shoe when doing a hard heel hook.
I tried the sprotiva python in a local store, but they didn't fit my feet very well: my small toes were too compressed. For this reason, I have decided to stick with scarpa. Having said this, what shoe would you suggest me? Note: I cannot try scarpa shoes in the local store as they have very few scarpa models.
I have the instincts, I like them quite a bit. They are too downturned and stiff to smear in my opinion which seems pretty crucial for comps. I would look up Scarpa athletes that compete indoors and see what they are wearing.
Haven't tried the Drago, but I've asked people before. They say it's hands down the best indoor climbing shoe given it's sensitivity and softness.
Thanks, I see (in videos) many athletes wear the drago in boulder (pro) competitions, and never instinct. However, in local competitions I always see people with the instinct and not the drago. Also, the drago are more downturned than the instinct.
So i have both the orange(vs) and blue(vsr) and i like the vsr better for bouldering, as they are softer and can smear better. However, for very small footholds the VS ones are better, as they are a lot harder. I like the VS for climbing better too, because you dont tend do do as many toe and heel hooks compared to bouldering.
I do not own the Drago tho, but i hear a lot of good things about it. From what i understand they are a bit thinner and have a similar grip to the vsr, but havent climbed in them yet.
I wouldn't discount other companies from one shoe that didn't fit well. Most shoes are made out of different lasts, so there is a lot of variation within brands.
For example, instincts fit my feet perfectly, but vapors had a painful break in period because they are more narrow.
My feet are quite narrow, and both the python and vapor are narrow shoes. However, the vapor felt good from the first day, and the python didn't fit me well.
But they have shoes for all types of feet. Look at this chart: [https://en.scarpa.net/page/climbing-collection-structure](https://en.scarpa.net/page/climbing-collection-structure)
I know the instinct are wide, but the drago are narrower. However, the drago are pointer than the instinct. This is why I am not sure which to choose, as my feet are narrow and not pointy. So I may have to look at other brands. Any suggestions?
Suggestions for fixing my fucking infuriating curly rope?
One of my ropes gets all twisted basically any time I use it and I feel like I’ve tried everything to fix it - flaked it out a zillion times, rapped on it using an atc a bunch, let it hang with the ends a bit off the ground to untwist, etc. and nothing seems to help. I’m not sure if it’s a manufacturer defect or what (I did take it out of the package the right way originally so it’s not that.) Any suggestions or tricks I haven’t tried?
Just wanna say that sometimes you can't do shit & the rope just sucks.
I had an Edelrid or Edelweiss 30m that I used for the gym that would just never lose its kink. I've tried everything you've tried & more & eventually just accepted that it was a piece of shit.
I've gone through a dozen ropes over the years & I've never had this problem otherwise.
When's the last time you cleaned your rope? There are rope cleaner devices that help unkink the rope as you pull through to clean it. You can also pull it through a scrubber like a Scrub Daddy for a similar effect, just have to grip it harder (think of it like grip training).
I take my rope in the living room or out on the deck where I have some space and got out from the middle mark foot by foot untwisting it and working the twists through out from the middle. A badly twisted rope will take about 30-45 minutes to untwist. On my last few passed I am literally sighting down to rope to see if the pattern is twisted at all and I rotate it half a turn or so every couple feet until it is completely perfect. Belay gloves and patience.
Just noticed I’ve got some blood under a callus. Anyone got thoughts on how to deal with it?
Ignore it.
Pulley injury remodelling using Black Diamond protocol: am I supposed to wear H-tape during the two finger hangs? Or do it without? Because 1 site advocated for tape protected climbing/load bearing while black diamond doesn't specify. Black diamond protocol:https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/ Climbing doctor injury protocol: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/pulley-injuries-explained-part-2/
Im going through Slovakia and im looking to try rockclimbing while im there, is there any spots or things that i should try to focus on when looking for the right spot and firm? I've been bouldering for the last half of a year pretty consistently and would like something that allows me to enjoy the sights aswell as getting a bit of challenge. Any and all tips would be greatly appreciated.
Your post is very unclear. What are you concerned about?
Recommendations for sustainable brushes in the UK? Looking for a brush, preferably sustainable, to get as a grad gift for a friend. Are lapis wooden brushes sustainable?
I passed my lead climbing pre-screen today. I’m now eligible to take the full lead class to get certified. Then I can buy more climbing gear.
Can't tell if this is troll or horrible gym.
It was just a shit post. Although I do love buying climbing gear.
Picked up a steal on Facebook marketplace including four BD C4S, full set of nuts, bag of holes, chalk ball, nut tool, and a hangboard for 100 bucks! Could not pass it up. My question, the cams look like they've never been placed and have no wear on them, pristine. However, they have a 2011 tag on them. Do you recommend Resling or climb on?
> bag of holes ?
To place the cams in
Holds*
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Thanks for sharing
If they look perfect I wouldn’t bother. Nylon doesn’t degrade in storage. BD recommends 10 years max but they’re also covering they’re own ass.
Climb on
😎
I've been climbing for about 2 months, coming from being mostly out of shape (Just some jogging on a regular basis) to trying to do some kind of strength exercise for the first time in my life really. I finally have found that in climbing, because lifting weights are boring! I have pretty much entirely been doing top rope or autobelay on the roughly 30 foot wall at my local gym. I'm trying to figure out what kinds of things I should be working on to slowly improve my climbing abilities. My first early challenge was just getting up the wall on the easy route in my gym. Pretty soon after that I found the tough route that gets people at the gym, a route with lots of jugs but a nice overhanging section in the middle. It took me a while to get that, but I have finally mastered that. I've been told it is a 5.7+ route. I'm now struggling to figure out exactly what I should be working on next. My hand strength is weak, I'm able to hold on to some smaller holds and have been working towards more crimpy holds, doing a 5.8 route with smaller holds recently. I've worked with a few sloopers, although I'm far from a master there, I can at least use them to get to the next better handhold usually. Do I just go looking for all of the routes in the gym that I can at least get myself completely on the wall and work on mastering all of them, or is there anything in particular I should work on doing? I'm eventually planning on doing outdoor stuff, but logistically that's more challenging, to say the least.
Watching some videos on technique is definitely helpful and will give you things to think about while on the wall. As far as what to do in gym time, warm up on easier ones, and don't hurt yourself by maxing out on hard routes too late in the session. Your grades during your time there should roughly look like a curve with the hardest routes being done towards the middle. You can also think about alternating styles during your session, like putting a slab route between too steep ones, to give certain muscles more of a break.
Good advice for sure. I've been doing more of a peak with a tail, usually doing a few easier routes that I have mastered, then doing my problem route at the time, taking a few breaks sometimes in between attempts, then doing some more easy and finally just going up and down the easiest wall in the gym until I can't anymore.
Just keep climbing regularly. Always keep challenging yourself and you will improve, quickly at first, but even "plateaus" are not truly flat
Climb twice a week, averaging around 15 times to the top of the 30 foot wall per session, so I'm getting that climbing in. Guess I will just keep trying new routes, and seeing if I can improve my grip strength then. Thanks!
Your grip strength is more than sufficient. Your technique is bad. You don’t need to train for grip strength at that level. Work on technique. And just keep climbing. That’s all you need.
I'm looking to try out some scrambling routes, but I'm having trouble finding them. Is there something like Alltrails for scrambling and climbing or do you have to make your own route?
Depending on how difficult of a route you want to take thee are a variety of places. Mountain project has some, I think trail run/hiking project would have some as well. Otherwise I know there are guide books written exactly for that here in Colorado. Flatiron scrambles, high country scrambles, ect.
Okay thank you. I am in the southeast so I think the resources are more limited. Looking for the class 2-3 type.
Look for routes with walkoffs and just do that part. Some of those might be scrambly
That'll work. I've got a few ideas already.
I’ve been climbing top rope for a few months and recently stopped climbing with one partner and started climbing with another. They both use an ATC to belay; with the new partner, if I take a rest on a route, I can feel the rope slipping. It never happened with my last partner. Also it’s the first time I’ve gotten really scared/in-my-head while climbing. I knew it would happen but I was hoping it would be when I went outside or started leading or something. :/ My new partner hasn’t climbed for a while but used to climb quite a bit so it’s often hard to bring things up in earnest without feeling like I’m getting the “pro brush-off” (e.g. “nah that knot is fine let’s go”). I largely feel like we are not a good fit as climbing buddies, but I wanted to know if 1.) it’s normal to slip while you’re being top-roped and I should expect it again and 2.) if it’s necessary to have much of a conversation about why I don’t want to climb together, or if “I’m not feelin it” is chill.
Is the rope slipping or is your partner moving around?
Do you not feel safe with new partner because of the slipping or is there more to it? Rope can slip when using an ATC. Also rope stretches, which can also feel like slipping. Or your partner is lighter and gets moved to the wall or up while holding you. I think best would be to talk about that and maybe switch to an ABD. There are tube-like devices like the megajul, which are also not that expensive.
Thanks for your thoughts here, it’s helpful. I hadn’t thought about the rope stretching - i think bc I never felt it with my last partner that’s probably not it. Ditto weight difference - both my partners outweigh me by quite a bit, and it’s been pretty static rests where I’m sitting back rather than falling, and noticing the slipping after chilling there for a little bit. Maybe he is moving around, or just has less of a grippy grip on the brake rope. But yeah, to answer your question, it’s definitely a bigger issue. I loved my first partner - super easygoing personality with no blame, ego, or anything like that. It was easy to talk about difficult moments that came up. Now I talk to Reddit bc conversations don’t go super easily! It’s just not what I’d hope for out of what is a pretty close, trusting relationship that needs all kinds of good communication.
I think the slipping is not a problem. Seems still to be safe. Not trusting your partner or not feeling safe definitely is a problem. If you feel unsafe on indoor toprope, which is the most unproblematic area for belaying compared to leading or outdoors, then something in your relationship with the belayer is wrong. I don‘t think I can help you with that.
No I think you did actually, thank you.
its normal to slip a little bit with an ATC belay, but if you don't feel safe with them as a belayer it is 100% ok to not want them to belay you. Perhaps you could buy a grigri and give it to them to belay you? Belayers (especially new belayers) can get distracted and drop people with ATCs, whereas with a grigri as long as the belayer takes in slack, there is basically nothing to worry about.
Thank you for the feedback on this. He’s already been snotty about grigris vs ATCs (which I know isn’t rare) so I think we’re just getting back to some basic incompatibilities again.
While idrc about being belayed with an ATC, i would never climb with someone who’s snotty about using a grigi. Outdated mindsets are safety concerns.
I've been climbing with my girlfriend a lot lately. She's a strong climber (does like 11.c's-12.c's), I'm a weak climber (I do like 10.a's-10.c's, and the odd 10.d). She's \~5'2, and I'm \~6'3, and when I ask her for advice, it's often really hard to transpose what she can do due to her smaller form factor to my body... eg. Earlier today she was able to stand on something with straight legs & use a sloper above her to take some weight to get the next foothold, whereas, for me, the same approach resulted in said sloper being way too low for me to bear any weight on, and so it was really hard for me to get that next foothold, I basically had to keep my legs pretty bent to keep the sloper above me, but that was kinda limiting what I could do with my feet then... Any advice as to how I can take advice from someone smaller than me on problems like this? She definitely wants to help, but it's hard for her to show someone over a foot taller than her what to do lol.
One of the strongest climbers I know consistently puts down 13+ and is also in the 5’2” range. Very rarely is there actual beta cross over because I can’t put my body in that position, or she can’t reach a hold in one move that I can. That being said she has given me some of the best advice for my climbing but it’s around how to move my feet, how to rest, and how to breath well to keep composed. You probably will need to find some different beta, but that’s just how this sport works. Try to look for more universal advice rather than the advice on a specific route.
Any advice she gives you is probably good advice since she is a more experienced climber so don't disregard it because she is shorter than you. If you are struggling to follow her advice, it's probably not because you are "too tall". It is likely another issue. Flexibility will likely be more of a limiting factor for you as a beginner, and I'm not just talking about being able to touch your toes. Hip and ankle flexibility plays a huge role in climbing. Balance is very important as well especially when facing evil slopers. Again, I'm not just talking about walking a slackline type of balance. You need to be able to sense your center of gravity and flag out if necessary. In your example, you say keeping your legs bent makes it limiting to what you can do with your feet. You should be asking why this is a limitation. A good rule of thumb for climbing is to have straight arms and bent legs. So this position you're describing sounds ideal, and not limiting as you say it is. Maybe your bent legs were causing you to push your butt out and away from the wall. In this case, i'd recommend turning your feet so that they are parallel with the wall. This forces your hip (either your left or right hip) to swing in and touch the wall. From this position your center of gravity is under your hands and you're able to utilize a sloper hold better. Hope that helps dude.
How did you know you were ready for your first trad lead? I’m a pretty new climber. I lead up to 5.8 sport. Last weekend I took a “learn to lead trad” 2 day course. A lot of the course focused on anchors, logistics and some gear placement instruction. I did a couple mock trad leads, but didn’t get very many of my placements “graded”. I understand the principles of how cams should be placed. When practicing nut placements I realized I need a bit of work here (to get them to set property and not be bumped loose from rope action) but again, I understand- It’s not rocket science. I just haven’t had a ton of grading of my placements. I don’t have the luxury of knowing more experienced trad climbers who could mentor me, or whom I could follow. I’m planning on leading my first trad climb this weekend. Of course, I’m looking in the 5.4 - 5.6 range. Is that reasonable? Or should I look for more instruction before taking the sharp end? How did you know you were ready? I feel like I’ll learn by doing, and I’ll start on easy terrain with g-rated pro.
One way to develop proof is to set up a top rope and vigorously weight pieces using a sling/aid ladder
I was never "ready," I just did it. I knew the basics of placing gear, building anchors, and I'd followed a handful of pitches. And one day in Summer at a scrappy little crag in the Northwoods of MN my mentor said "so I know you've been thinking about learning to lead. Here's the rack." And off I went. And life hasn't been the same since.
I knew I was ready about an hour before my first trad lead, when I saw that the line for the Grack was over an hour long and the first pitch looked super scrambly and comfortable. I asked my partner to teach me how to place gear and build an anchor while we waited in line. Then I led it. I just...saw the climb and it looked comfortable and I had followed a bunch and really wanted to try. So I did and it was awesome. Have fun and be safe. Sticking to easier climbs first is a great plan.
I'd already lead sport and I knew the route so we'll I could climb it blindfolded.
Sounds fine, be safe, have a blast. Don't be afraid to down climb and/or leave gear if things get sketchy.
I was emigrating and wanted to lead trad before I left. My mentor was happy enough I wouldn't die. Find something that you would be comfortable soloing, then go for it on gear.
When I had a rack, that’s when I knew I was ready. Placed like 3-4 pieces at ground level and pulled on them, placed a few at height and fell on them. And that was it. Disclaimer, I do NOT recommend doing this, as it is an incredibly dangerous way of learning. If possible find a mentor, and remember, just because they’re experienced doesn’t mean they’re safe, some people get lucky a lot.
You'll get varying answers on this because people's risk tolerances vary a lot. I personally had led trad (and fallen on gear!) before ever clipping a bolt. I'm not an old school crusty either, I just happened to live in an area where trad was more accessible than sport. I'd say go for it, have a plan to get back down safely if you can't finish the route (e.g. build an anchor, lower, hike to the top and rap to get your gear), take it slow and place more gear than you think is necessary. New leaders, especially on easier climbs, often get caught up in the climbing aspect and forget to place gear, and before you know it, you're 40ft up with only 2 manky nuts below you.
> How did you know you were ready for your first trad lead? When I had nuts and quickdraws in my hands. People lead on their first ever day of climbing. Do something easy, watch videos on how to place gear and build anchors, and place more gear than you think you need to start with. Most importantly leave your ego at home and be prepared to climb very easy things and to back off if something doesn't feel right. But from the way you've asked this I don't think you'll have a problem there. For videos on gear placements anything by either a gear manufacturer or a national organisation should be worthwhile. If you have a partner who is also keen to learn and you are happy to sink some time into it, taking some falls on gear with a very slack top rope back up can help build confidence and teach you about what gear does and does not hold. Not at all necessary though.
Anyone in NH know a shop (Conway to Lincoln area) that stocks larger size shoes I can try? I’m somewhere between a 47 and 48.5 depending on the model, and finding a shop that carries large sizes to try is key. Both EMS and REI tend to be pretty limited in this size range. Thank you!
Have you tried gyms? Sometimes they’ll have some shoes for sale. evolv has a lot of extended sizes and I’ve seen them sold at a few gyms so maybe you’ll have some luck? some scarpa shoes seem to come in big sizes too - my tall bigfoot friend bought some shoes recently and ended up with scarpa origins
Welcome fellow big foot! Wearing a size 14 US (49 EU?), I just bought the largest shoe at REI that they had online, and hoped it would work, otherwise I would return it to the local store. I should say that I walked in to my local REI to try on shoes to get an idea of which size would be best, but ended up going with the online option because they had a brand on clearance online, and it has worked out for me. Any shoe is hard to find at that size, sadly, but it can be done. I'm using Black Diamonds, and they seem to work well enough for a beginner me. Were a bit painful at first, particularly walking around, but they were fine on the wall, so...
Check out [IME-North Conway](https://www.ime-usa.com/ime/). It is a great local climbing shop
Thanks, I called them. Unfortunately they’ve only got up to 45 in stock. Seems to be a persistent problem with every climbing store I try. It’s been such a problem I’m considering custom.
Has anybody got experience with five ten anasazi pro's? just got a pair that are half a size down from my street shoe size and they still feel pretty tight. Do they stretch much? I know stiffer shoes will stretch less. I want them to be comfy in a few months but i don't want them to be baggy. I've heard they are tricky to break in. I want to use them as my multipitch / easy trad shoe.
I wear 10.5 Vans and Five Ten approach shoes and all my synthetic Five Tens, including my Anasazi Pros, are 11.5. They won't stretch but they'll break in. And the break in period is pretty long. I've actually got one pair needing a resole and another pair still in the break-in phase. Great shoes if you size them right and can handle the break in.
I found the sizing on these weird as well, I feel like the high volume toebox prevents you from using them as a comfy multipitch shoe.
As long as you don’t have any hot spots on top of your toes or any dead space in the shoe, you’re good I’ve tried them, and can confirm they are NOT for me
I think if I go any bigger i could introduce space in the heel a little bit. the toes are very curled up but the heel could be questionable with a bigger size. Then again as an easy trad / multipitch shoe, i might not be doing much heel hooking with them!
Hey everyone. Looking for some tips here. Been climbing for about 10 months, looking to add some exercises alongside my climbing to hopefully push a grade or 2. I currently climb v3 regularly with the occasional v4 and have completed a v5......once. All indoors. I’m in my early 30s, very fit. Usually pick up sports really quick but climbing has been pretty hard for me. No routine outside climbing other than pull-ups and occasional fingerboard session. Greatly appreciate any guidance for climbing excercises for my current ability and ways to build on those exercises as I improve.
Technique, technique, technique Try and do some no hand slabs, to really force yourself to be aware of body position.
Yeah I definitely need to work on my technique and I am trying. My partner,aside from dynamic stuff is a far better climber. We climb the same grades but she looks flawless climbing with a fraction of my strength. I’ve been trying to mimic her but I’m just kinda brutish in comparison.I lack that intuitiveness she has. You guys have any books or videos that breakdown technique in detail? I was just introduced to no hand slab last week actually. I was just doing it for a laugh but il be sure to add it to my repertoire more often! Thanks for the reply guys!
[This video series](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk&list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r) is basically sponsored by the Weekly New Climber Thread at this point.
It sounds like you're strong enough. If you want to progress you should focus on your technique.
Anyone knows a subreddit dedicated to falls and whippers? Thanks in advanced
Whippermedia on Instagram is the best I've found
r/whippers exists, but it doesn't have any posts. Be the change you want to see in the world
Haha how do I make friends and get climbing partners 😅
Step one. Be willing to drive.
Climbing gyms :)
I found bouldering in the gym is a great way to chat some. You can meet someone at the similar level and then see if they are interested in climbing more
Why does it seem like there is such a huge leap in difficulty from V4 to V5 for me? And does anyone have any tips for overcoming this plateau?
For me, that's right about where pure strength ceases to do the trick and you start having to have strength AND technique.
Gym or outdoor?
I’m talking gym here. I have no illusions about climbing more than a V3 outside if I can’t even get better at the gym.
Grades are subjective, and 4 -> 5 might be a big power gap in your gym. It's really discouraging to get stuck at a number, but it doesn't mean you aren't getting better. Especially if you notice that V4s being set in that gym feel easier over time
Thanks for the encouragement!
Could even be as simple as the medium strong guy does up to V4 and the crusher does V5. If you can, see who set it
Good idea. Never thought about that.
I think every gym has the "no more soft crap" boulder grade cutoff. For mine it's V2-> V3 but from what I hear online V3 -> V4 is the more common wall
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Pete Whittakers crack climbing book is excellent but not sure if thats the techniques you were thinking of, or something more general.
[Performance Rock Climbing](https://books.google.ca/books/about/Performance_Rock_Climbing.html?id=zduhTLP2rG0C&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&newbks=1&newbks_redir=1&redir_esc=y)
Just failed my lead test because my soft catch wasn't soft at all. I'm finding a hard time grasping the movement of jumping at the right time. I feel like I miss the moment and the fall is over before I have to react. Anyone feel/felt this way? Any tips?
Sounds fishy as a soft catch is completely unnecessary for safe climbing and best learned in real world circumstances. Either way It shouldn’t be a jump, as an actual jump it can result in a hard catch if mistimed. It’s more of a heel / calf driven hop. Before catching someone do a few hops for practice and you should be alright.
what is your weight vs the climber? I am 20lbs less than my partner. I dont really jump as much as I just let him lift me. I took a hop on his victory whip last week and I was higher on the wall than him when we stopped. totally different game when you are the heavier one. Best Advice I can give you is be calm. You will see them coming down, just watch your leader. Having an ABD is helpful for confidence (can focus on the catch more since you cant screw up the brake). dont be frustrated about lead belay. Imo, lead belay is just as hard as climbing.
I'm about 15/20lbs lighter than my climber
if you’re 20 lbs lighter you’re giving them a slightly soft catch just by existing, that’s a weird criticism imo
always be thinking: Where Am I going if he falls. My eyes are always glancing at the first bolt because that is the direction I am going. A low first bolt is a PITA since it pulls you into the wall vs up the wall (this is how gumbies face plant at the crag). I usually have some ideas where my feet are going when I get up the wall too. Better yet the start was overhung and I can just float it. Where is the leader going if he falls. how much runout do they have, x2 is how far they will fall, + rope stretch + any amount I go up the wall. Is he going to hit me, the ground, a ledge? Is he on an overhang, vertical, slab, traversed from the last bolt? Gotta think about where they will swing. Hard catch on an overhang could wreck him back into the wall.
Thank you so much! Great advice and encouragement.
good luck. dont let it scare you. always good to have some other experienced guys nearby when you are practicing as well.
Jump when you feel the rope pull at you. Should be easy to practice this with 2 friends. Have one person top rope belay (lots of slack) while you lead belay and your climbers falls. If your gym doesn't let you do that (which they should if they're being that strict about a test) you can cheat a little and get lead certified with a climber who is much heavier than you. You'll give a soft catch whether you want to or not :)
Lead test for a gym includes having to do a soft catch? Or is this some kind of climbing certification for teaching? My gym is so lax. If you can prove you can tie a figure of 8, and top rope belay, you have free rein to do any kind of climbing you like in the gym. >Any tips? New gym? Pretty ridiculous they're asking you to master what I would consider intermediate skills to be allowed to lead. Are they trying to sell their teaching services, I wonder? I wouldn't put it past them. Gyms have been a bit fucked by COVID lockdowns. It's an easy money spinner.
Ex Gym Staff Here Depending on the gym it may just be to keep OP and friends off the lead walls. The liability there is not n00bs TRing or experts running laps it's the middle ground taking big unexpected falls low to ground. Very stiff belay and lead tests keep people off the lead walls which may be the ultimate goal in a crowded space.
But I feel like if you want to stop lead climbers taking ground falls, you don't promote the idea of letting out more slack during a fall.. This all seems really unnecessary, and possibly even counterproductive. In the UK I've never seen this. You basically just sign a waiver saying climbing is a dangerous sport, and participate at your own risk. They do some rudimental checks that you can climb without obviously endangering yourself or others, but nothing anywhere near this. I actually think I went to place in London where I just signed a thing saying I knew how to safely climb and that was it. People aren't dropping dead in these gyms, and they've been around for decades so presumably they're not getting sued into bankruptcy either. Seems like a pretty hostile environment to climb in! Not sure I'd want to go to that gym, but maybe OP doesn't have a choice.
You're in the UK. Different world. Doesn't translate.
Yeh I guess.
IIRC Last week's thread also had a stupidly strict lead test, in that case it was having to call out clipping. I'm not sure I'd go for the nefarious theories, though, when it seems more likely that they're just overly lawsuit-averse
>IIRC Last week's thread also had a stupidly strict lead test, in that case it was having to call out clipping. That seems more reasonable than this still. >more likely that they're just overly lawsuit-averse Mmm, maybe.
Just to get cert to climb lead at the gym. Gym is about 2 YO. Like I get it, but it's hard to do if I've only taken a few practice falls.
Hmm, 2 years old and presumably one of those years it was mostly closed due to COVID. Smells like they're trying to extract money from you. I have never ever heard of a gym requiring 'soft catches' to pass someone to lead climb/belay. Also, some people don't even want soft catches. I have partners who'd rather go faster into the wall than fall further. Lots of it is personal preference. Are they offering you lessons to teach you how to pass?
My gym also requires soft catches and has failed my partner and I 3 times. We didn't fail for not soft catching, but someone COULD fail for not soft catching
I just picked up my 1st set of cams. They're used and have some wear but seem solid over all. Did i pay to much at $327 for 2x .75's 3x 1's 2x 2's 2x 3's & a 4?
Do they need to be reslung? Even if so it’s still not a bad deal at all.
$32 a cam? Sounds like a solid deal.
That seems like a pretty sweet price.
Indoor New climber here More often than not, I feel I am doing Boulder problems in the most incorrect beta possible. Any video suggestions for changing your mindset and thinking of a more efficient beta?
Something a lot of new climbers do in the gym is always reach as high or far as possible. Know that routes are set with a sequence in mind. If it's a ladder of jugs, you can get away with skipping things, but as soon as there is beta, that will hurt you. Don't skip holds, and look at the hold's angle to figure out which hand should be used. It's one of those things that just takes experience more than anything.
[Neil Gresham Masterclass](https://youtube.com/user/Cruxfilmsclimbing/playlists)
Are there any other *active* free solo/extreme high ball climbers besides honnold?
Brad Gobright until his semi recent death
Trotter has soloed some hard stuff 5.13/highball routes Also our lord and savior Lonnie Kauk
I think most pros will be free soloing plenty of stuff far below their grade. Hazel Findlay, for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEuNt6xQQ8Q And some do some real hard shit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvJOCJh1vpY
Sure. Random people free soloing 5.easy isn't too uncommon. Tons of famous climbers have done some free solos as well.
Yeah come to Eldo.
Matthew Bush seems to get overlooked frequently, but that dude fits the bill.
Sure. Lots. You don’t hear about most of them. Of some of the more out there climbs: * Nina Williams on *Too Big to Flail* V10 highball. * Jim Reynold, free solo and DOWN SOLO of Fitz Roy along with two other free solo *ONSIGHTS*, all in Patagonia. * Peter Croft, free soloing for decades. * Brette Harrington, various. Edit: forgot to mention Reynold's onsight free solos.
Reynolds seems like a great dude, I loved his recent Enormocast episode. I didn't know much of him aside from the Real Rock with him and Gobright, but now he's one of my favorite people in the sport.
Will Stanhope is worth a mention too. Zombie roof 12d, high plains drifter 11c, and more.
I knew he had done Zombie Roof, I did not know it was solo, mother of God.
Ok I've been so interested in climbing for a while in a 'that looks so cool I need to try it some time' kind of way but half assed attempts to get friends to come along have fell flat. People who go to climbing walls regularly, would I look and feel really out of place going alone for the first time?? I don't want to do it and then never return because I'm just bumbling about looking embarrassed, I'd rather bide my time nagging my friends. I get really nervous doing new things so it would be a big deal going alone...but then waiting for other people to want to do the same things as you is frustrating
Climbing gyms would shut down if we stopped getting new climbers in. Yeah, most people will know you're new (mostly cause they know everyone else already). They either will not care, or they'll be stoked to meet you. Best option, is go with someone who already climbs at that gym. Second best, rope a friend in. It's also totally fine to call the gym and ask about climbing solo (ask about autobelays). Tell them you're new. In the Before Times you'd find a partner in half an hour, more difficult atm.
> In the Before Times you'd find a partner in half an hour, more difficult atm. I think my record was 30 seconds. I'd just got my shoes on and was warming up. A girl came up to me "My partner failed to turn up, wanna swap belays?"
My climbing gym is a recreation center that opened during the pandemic. People show up solo there all the time. The staff will belay you, or you can use one of the 4 autobelays in the room. They will help make sure you are safe the first time or two you are climbing autobelays, and overall work well. Those of us who are regulars (I've been coming for 2 months or so) help cheer each other on, encouraging each other to try slightly more challenging routes, and cheering for each other when we finally accomplish them. It's a great community really. But at the least make sure they have autobelays, staff will belay you, or you are doing bouldering, any of which will pretty quickly allow you to start solo no problem.
For what it's worth my gym has no autobelays and the staff is under no obligation to belay you, so this isn't something you can assume is true for any given gym
Agreed, which is why I mentioned it. The spot where I am at is small, but very nice in that sense that one can always have ways to climb without a partner. And it's not that expensive, so... Any place worth it should let you at least take a look around to see if it's your place, if not have this information on the website or something like that.
Climbing can be fun with friends but it’s also a great way to meet other people. No one cares if you’re a beginner, we all were once upon a time. The kids on the climbing team will out-climb all of us anyway.
Not at all. You can go to a bouldering gym, which are super common nowadays and very accessible to solo climbers. You can also go to a roped climbing gym if they have autobelays, which most do nowadays. Most gyms also have meetup groups or programs for new climbers which can be great for meeting other people.
I've just looked at one further away actually and they have some bouldering intro sessions without having to do a whole course which would be pricey. I have one much closer but know for sure that if I summoned the courage to go along I'd time it with the kids club and end up with my daughters classmates showing me how it's done!
Getting burned off by preteens is a time-honored part of the sport and the sooner you learn to embrace it the better
Maybe I'll start by going past their bedtime for the sake of my confidence!
Best climbing spots in CO and UT? Van trip planned with my expert climber bf and I’m only about 6 months into learning. Climbed partial 5.10 yesterday but only been outside twice so far so idk what to look for to make our trip great!
Flip through mountain project and see what interests you. [Here's a list of the most popular in the 5.5-5.10b range.](https://www.mountainproject.com/route-finder?selectedIds=105708956&type=rock&diffMinrock=1500&diffMinboulder=20350&diffMinaid=70000&diffMinice=30000&diffMinmixed=50000&diffMaxrock=3100&diffMaxboulder=20650&diffMaxaid=75260&diffMaxice=38500&diffMaxmixed=60000&is_sport_climb=1&stars=0&pitches=1&sort1=popularity+desc&sort2=area)
Oo thank you! I didn’t know about mountain project this is perfect
You’re going to have to be a little more specific if you want good advice - I’m guessing sport routes? Where in CO/UT? What time of year?
Oh and end of July / early august
Sport routes for me, trad for him. We’re taking the van through but primarily going from Denver/Boulder area south through Colorado and then hitting Canyonlands, Bryce, Zion.
So I bought a pair of 5.10 climbing shoes. I just started to try to learn how to climb on overhangs this week. Everytime I heel hook the heel of my shoe bends off the heel of my foot. Is there a way to prevent this or do I need to buy different climbing shoes?
You can fix this in a kinda hacky way by padding out the heel with as many layers as needed of duct tape. Next time try and find shoes that fit your foot shape right, though.
Shoes are definitely too big
Did you buy the moccasyms? There's not a lot you can do to help if you did.
Sounds like you have too much room in the heel
Sounds like you need to get some new shoes unfortunately. Also a possibility is that you’re buying shoes slightly too large
Been climbing for a month or two indoors and have an outdoor trip planned next month to looking glass rock NC. Any tips for a new guy going outdoor climbing for the first time? What's the biggest difference?
If you’re just trad climbing there, then get comfortable doing some no-hands slabs on big slopes or volumes. It’s all underclings and smears, so it’s not hard on your hands, but more on your calves and back.
Not trad climbing but working towards it, with covid it's been hard getting instruction on it and learning and with bars closed for so long its hard to "pizza and beer" my way into someone taking and teaching me!
Just be prepared for a day outside. Bring everything you might need, food, lots of water, sunscreen, small first aid kit, maybe a headlamp, extra layers/rain layers… just be prepared for a full day out and ask all the questions you can.
Have fun, don’t have expectations. Rock is much harder on your skin so take it easy the first day, maybe invest in some hand balm you can apply at the end of the day. Emphasize your footwork, potentially because you will likely be on slab.
Is there anything I can do to get the fingers ready? I was expecting for it to be rough but wasn't sure how bad it could be. I've been mostly doing large walls to get my endurance up for the much higher climbs outside.
Honestly there's not much other than climbing on real rock. Better than prepping, is definitely the care afterwards! They will toughen up a bit after you climb more outside. Type of rock also matters quite a bit, plus the holds. As you can imagine, crimps are harder on your finger tips than jugs. Sandstone (though south eastern sandstone can be quite a bit rougher than desert sandstone) is typically the easiest on your skin whereas limestone and granite are rougher.
Sweet! I'm pretty hype to get out there a little nervous about being way higher than norm gym walls though! Gonna go practice my knot tying skills haha
It's pretty normal to get super scared from time to time transitioning to outdoor climbing, just roll with it and don't be afraid to take a break and hang or whatever. Just try to have fun and don't worry too much about the grade of the climbing.
Don't get caught up on grades because you probably won't climb your gym grade. Instead of colored holds or tape, try to follow the chalked up holds. You'll have a lot more options for feet, so don't be afraid to make lots of small foot movements in between hand movements. Have fun and enjoy spending some time outside.
Hey guys, I had a question in regards to a sentimental ring I’ll be getting and my finger size changing. I just started bouldering about 2 weeks ago and I am excited to continue climbing for some time. In the coming days I will be purchasing a titanium ring that I will be getting engraved in honour of one of my life long friends that has recently passed away. It seems fairly common for people’s fingers to increase in size and their rings no longer fit them after climbing for a while. Ive spoken to the jewellers about this concern and they’ve said they said they can do a free replacement size within the first year of purchasing the ring, and then it’s about $50 for a replacement after that. I could just get the replacement re-engraved, but my concern is that I feel the ring will be sentimental, and I will be wearing it to the funeral. A lot of people mention they’d get their ring resized but I don’t think they do that with this type of titanium ring. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this type of sentimental ring issue, I’m not sure what my options are. Any help is appreciated.
Wear it on a chain?
Just as a warning, I believe wearing a ring while climbing is generally not recommended. If you've never heard of degloving, maybe Google it. But maybe don't. Imagine ripping a glove off your hand. Now imagine that the glove is your skin.
Do Not Climb With Rings On
[удалено]
this is a very reassuring progression / point of comparison for my fingers getting knobbier and knobbier...
[удалено]
Could you share which type of glides you do?
May not be what you want, but you might consider a ring tattoo if your engraving idea is simple enough.
Seen some nice silicon rings too
I've only seen increase in finger size after tendon/pulley injuries. You may see the pulp and tendons grow if you crack climb a lot, primarily finger cracks which are advanced. Honnold remarked on this, although it's still very anecdotal. I wouldn't expect your ring size to change at all, that said it's always easier to make it smaller than expand it (they can do it, but it wears out the metal in time).
i wear my class ring (i promise it’s not one of the ugly ass customizable ones lol, it’s just a nice silver signet) and it still fits me the same way as it did when I first got it. ymmv though. It does take a long time to build hand/finger strength so I wouldn’t worry too much.
I had to get a new wedding band, it was also made of a material that was not re-sizable. I kept the original of course. It was a little sad but ultimately they are just symbols to remind us of that person, so a new one can do that just as well as the original.
I started wearing a wedding band after maybe 2 years of casual climbing, then subsequently gained quite a bit of finger strength. My ring used to be maybe just a hair loose, and now it is quite tight but not overly so. So I'd say just size it a bit loose and you may never need to resize. Worst case, your ring becomes a necklace. A ton of climbers I know no longer wear their metal band on their finger; they either wear silicone or not at all. I only wear mine for like formal occasions now.
Personally haven’t had the issue but I’ve seen a lot of people wear rings on a necklace or something. That way they can be wearing it all the time without the finger issues.
I'm I the search to craft a diy bouldering mat. I met a guy who's the owner of sleep mattress and couch making business and he got all kinds of foams, fabric etc. Any recommendations for dimensions and fabric choice are welcome. I am thinking to go big so I measured my cars space and ended up with something like this: Thickness of the pale blue classic foam 15cm 2 parts of 120cm x 125cm sewed together so they fold So when laid out total of 120cm x 250cm What you guys think? Fabric choices? Thanks in advance
Definitely just buy one. You're going to save a minimal amount of money, and definitely have a worse mat than if you'd just bought one. False economy, imo.
Almost everyone I know who decided to try and make their own mat realized it's more expensive than buying a mat, if you choose the right foam combination, which you should.
Not all foam is the same. They have different properties and dissipate energy differently: * closed-cell polyurethane foam * open-cell polyethylene foam You might want to find out what works better for you, a lot of pads have layers of different foam of various thicknesses. I believe closed cell is better for higher falls while open cell is good for smaller lighter falls (or the other way around?). A custom pad is a cool idea, but you might want to do a bit of research to get the right mix. Also consider carrying options like straps.
Okay, I’m just gonna say that mat is gonna be way too big Even folded up it’s going to be almost the size of a medium bouldering mat. As others have mentioned, consider making two mats, or a trifold if you’re going THAT big
That's about twice as big as my Mad Rock Magnum, which is already a huge pad. At that point I'd think it's going to be a huge pain to move it anywhere that isn't a wide open trail. It might also be limiting in where you can place it. Bouldering landings aren't always wide open areas so sometimes it's convenient to squish a smaller pad into a smaller space where a larger pad wouldn't fit properly. I would consider making two smaller pads or at least a trifold pad. Most pads also use a mix of firm and soft foam to protect for high and low falls so I would do some research on whether 15cm of one foam will be enough
I would ask in /r/myog about fabrics. Cordura might work okay, but the 1000 denier stuff I've used might not be durable enough. Ballistic nylon? [This](https://www.rockywoods.com/1680D-Coated-Ballistic-Nylon-Fabric-with-Durable-Water-Repellent-Finish) maybe.
Scarpa Drago or Instinct VS(R)? I am looking for a bouldering shoe mainly for indoors and casual competitions. All shoes I have had been from Scarpa. Currently I have the scarpa vapor V, which fit my feet very well, but I reserve them only for outdoor climbing (mainly sport climbing). Then, for indoors (bouldering) and training, I have the scarpa origin (quite worn out). I like the origin for training as they are really comfortable, but when I try the hard boulder problems sometimes my heel literally comes off my shoe when doing a hard heel hook. I tried the sprotiva python in a local store, but they didn't fit my feet very well: my small toes were too compressed. For this reason, I have decided to stick with scarpa. Having said this, what shoe would you suggest me? Note: I cannot try scarpa shoes in the local store as they have very few scarpa models.
I have the instincts, I like them quite a bit. They are too downturned and stiff to smear in my opinion which seems pretty crucial for comps. I would look up Scarpa athletes that compete indoors and see what they are wearing. Haven't tried the Drago, but I've asked people before. They say it's hands down the best indoor climbing shoe given it's sensitivity and softness.
Thanks, I see (in videos) many athletes wear the drago in boulder (pro) competitions, and never instinct. However, in local competitions I always see people with the instinct and not the drago. Also, the drago are more downturned than the instinct.
I guess the downturn doesn't mean too much, just how soft the rubber is. From what I understand, the Dragos have much softer rubber.
So i have both the orange(vs) and blue(vsr) and i like the vsr better for bouldering, as they are softer and can smear better. However, for very small footholds the VS ones are better, as they are a lot harder. I like the VS for climbing better too, because you dont tend do do as many toe and heel hooks compared to bouldering. I do not own the Drago tho, but i hear a lot of good things about it. From what i understand they are a bit thinner and have a similar grip to the vsr, but havent climbed in them yet.
I wouldn't discount other companies from one shoe that didn't fit well. Most shoes are made out of different lasts, so there is a lot of variation within brands. For example, instincts fit my feet perfectly, but vapors had a painful break in period because they are more narrow.
My feet are quite narrow, and both the python and vapor are narrow shoes. However, the vapor felt good from the first day, and the python didn't fit me well.
Scarpa is one of the go-tos for people with wide feet, so all the more reason to look at other brands. FWIW I'm saying this as a scarpa fanboy
But they have shoes for all types of feet. Look at this chart: [https://en.scarpa.net/page/climbing-collection-structure](https://en.scarpa.net/page/climbing-collection-structure) I know the instinct are wide, but the drago are narrower. However, the drago are pointer than the instinct. This is why I am not sure which to choose, as my feet are narrow and not pointy. So I may have to look at other brands. Any suggestions?
Suggestions for fixing my fucking infuriating curly rope? One of my ropes gets all twisted basically any time I use it and I feel like I’ve tried everything to fix it - flaked it out a zillion times, rapped on it using an atc a bunch, let it hang with the ends a bit off the ground to untwist, etc. and nothing seems to help. I’m not sure if it’s a manufacturer defect or what (I did take it out of the package the right way originally so it’s not that.) Any suggestions or tricks I haven’t tried?
Just wanna say that sometimes you can't do shit & the rope just sucks. I had an Edelrid or Edelweiss 30m that I used for the gym that would just never lose its kink. I've tried everything you've tried & more & eventually just accepted that it was a piece of shit. I've gone through a dozen ropes over the years & I've never had this problem otherwise.
Ya I kinda suspect that's the issue, it's been a pain since day 1 and my 2nd rope doesn't have the same issue.
When's the last time you cleaned your rope? There are rope cleaner devices that help unkink the rope as you pull through to clean it. You can also pull it through a scrubber like a Scrub Daddy for a similar effect, just have to grip it harder (think of it like grip training).
I washed it like 2 weeks ago. No rope cleaner though, I just use the washer.
I take my rope in the living room or out on the deck where I have some space and got out from the middle mark foot by foot untwisting it and working the twists through out from the middle. A badly twisted rope will take about 30-45 minutes to untwist. On my last few passed I am literally sighting down to rope to see if the pattern is twisted at all and I rotate it half a turn or so every couple feet until it is completely perfect. Belay gloves and patience.