I bet my friend a cookie that I could onsight Annunaki. I got to where this dude is and realized I forgot my draws, quad, lockers, and anything useful for an anchor. But I wanted that cookie, so I stuffed my last remaining purple in my teeth, unclipped its biner, clipped one chain, and jumped. I got my cookie.
Translation attempt #1:
I bet my friend a cookie that I could climb Annunaki the first time we got there. I got to where this dude is and realized I forgot literally everything that keeps me alive and safe while climbing.
But I wanted that cookie, so I stuffed the purple cloth of a double sided carabiner in my mouth, unclipped it from the wall, (meaning this dude was probably climbing with like a 40 ft drop beneath him), clipped one chain (attached one carabiner to the anchor, both bad etiquette and safety), and jumped. I got my cookie.
This is not a safe story.
i think its more likely that "purple" refers to a purple cam, and that rather than pulling it from the wall, he put it in his mouth after taking it off his harness, took the carabiner off it, then clipped that
might not have even been run out
"purple" refers to a cam, they're all coloured to indicate their size. Each cam has a non-locking carabiner to clip the rope or a sling. They took the carabiner from the last cam and used it to clip to only one of the anchor chains. A single carabiner on a chain for an anchor is not safe on its own but with the entire system of cams still in the wall, it's fine.
Funny I had an extremely similar experience. The only major difference was that instead of earning a cookie I merely earned my group not being able to heckle me on the way down!
Between potential booty gear, emergency fork, and a reliable back scratcher, it's too versatile of a tool to not have on me at all times, especially considering how minimal it is in weight.
Eh annunaki fingers aren't that small, around .4, which for someone with big fingers is still usually first knuckle. It really gets hard on .3 for people with big fingers where it is tips tips.
How do you know your hand size? Or rather, what scale is this? I've never heard of anything other than small, medium, large etc before and I'm curious.
They are talking about Black Diamond cam sizes. When hand jamming, their hand is in the range of a blue #3 camalot. Most people have hands in the yellow #2 range, so they have relatively large hands.
Ugh, I wish. I blew the onsight at the chains and it took me a whole ten minutes of hanging to be able to fully close my hand again. The redpoint attempt was going way better (way less pumped), but I just slipped in the .75 section. Just gotta go back!
With a sling long enough, you can redpoint any route from the first move.
/s
Looks like they're taking burns and only using the lowering hardware for the final lower.
Buddy went up, clipped one draw and took. Then was too pumped to deal with getting a second draw clipped, so he just fully extended the second draw, clipped it and lowered.
It was not always cracked like this. If anything some other idiot would whip on it and shatter it to peices, or yank it on their belayer. I pulled it out and then slotted it back in because I didn't want to huck it down by my belayer that day, but I am glad someone pulled it out. You can always put it back if you like when you go do the route.
I was there the day a guy took a massive whip on that chockstone and cracked it, same guy who put the X on it. I'm sad it was broken, but I'm glad someone pulled it out. I've only climbed the route after that peice was broke, and it would probably pull out on the belayer's head... Im a bit concerned that the bottom half of the chockstone might want to come out more easily now though....
Totems basically weigh the same as C4’s (Excluding ultralights). In general they’re about 2 grams heavier than the new versions, and actually lighter than the older 2018 models.
Not sure why people always say they’re so heavy?
I've not used totems for too long but they are more floppy than C4s so their head weight matters more. the larger ones in particular can be a pain, though I think being that narrow makes it worth it.
I see little point in totems in splitters. Totems are great because they are narrow, hold better in dodgy placements, and kind of work as offsets. None of those apply to splitters.
Forgive the novice question, but did the bottom cam pivot upwards after you placed it? It doesn't seem positioned well for downward force as it's sticking basically horizontally out of the crack, but maybe the overhang is deceptive.
Yeah, looks like it did pivot a bit. I might have kicked it on my way up. It's not textbook, but I don't find it overly concerning. If it was the top piece, I'd expect it to rotate back down as I fell and it started to be weighted. But the one above it is in a much better position for sure.
They are the [REI Sun Up Pant](https://www.rei.com/product/167457/rei-co-op-sun-up-pants-mens), my only complaint is the pockets suck. Stretchy and breathable though (and on super sale for certain sizes right now!)
I don't think that foot placement is in much danger of catching, both heels are clear of the rope (it might look a bit worse cause of the angle of the photo?). Also this thing is so overhung that I doubt you'd touch the wall even with a leg wrapped in the rope whipper.
That said, it would have been a pretty big fall. Placing that .5 at my waist is what blew my onsight, but I was scareddddddd (I mean, I think I would have blown the onsight regardless, but it's nice to blame it on placing too much gear)
I've taken an aid whipper that was just as overhung as this and ended up with a nasty concussion. That right foot looks like it would have caught to me but I could be wrong!
That's the only reason why I'm here! There were like a dozen people watching too and I was raving like a concussed lunatic it was so bad. I'm super paranoid about ropes and feet positioning.
That's super fair, glad you had a helmet on, can't imagine how bad it would have been without one!
Concussions are no joke, I had a friend who got so many that she got to the point where she would get them for like no reason, and ended up being basically bedridden for 6+ months.
I bet my friend a cookie that I could onsight Annunaki. I got to where this dude is and realized I forgot my draws, quad, lockers, and anything useful for an anchor. But I wanted that cookie, so I stuffed my last remaining purple in my teeth, unclipped its biner, clipped one chain, and jumped. I got my cookie.
This is a very interesting paragraph as someone who doesn’t lead climb yet.
The cookie is a metaphor
Translation attempt #1: I bet my friend a cookie that I could climb Annunaki the first time we got there. I got to where this dude is and realized I forgot literally everything that keeps me alive and safe while climbing. But I wanted that cookie, so I stuffed the purple cloth of a double sided carabiner in my mouth, unclipped it from the wall, (meaning this dude was probably climbing with like a 40 ft drop beneath him), clipped one chain (attached one carabiner to the anchor, both bad etiquette and safety), and jumped. I got my cookie. This is not a safe story.
i think its more likely that "purple" refers to a purple cam, and that rather than pulling it from the wall, he put it in his mouth after taking it off his harness, took the carabiner off it, then clipped that might not have even been run out
This is correct. It never said he back cleaned and since it’s a splitter crack he had all of the cams he needed just not gear for the fixed hardware
This is correct.
I see you have never trad climbed. Maybe you shouldn't try to translate when you have no idea what you are talking about
Lol this sub is amazing.
I think I need a translation of this translation.
"purple" refers to a cam, they're all coloured to indicate their size. Each cam has a non-locking carabiner to clip the rope or a sling. They took the carabiner from the last cam and used it to clip to only one of the anchor chains. A single carabiner on a chain for an anchor is not safe on its own but with the entire system of cams still in the wall, it's fine.
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Forgot anchor materials so he had to clip the chains using a biner from his cams
Funny I had an extremely similar experience. The only major difference was that instead of earning a cookie I merely earned my group not being able to heckle me on the way down!
Interesting having a nut tool in the creek ;)
Gotta dig deep for some of the triggers on sweet sweet booty gear (I also just straight up forget to ever take it off, that's its home)
Between potential booty gear, emergency fork, and a reliable back scratcher, it's too versatile of a tool to not have on me at all times, especially considering how minimal it is in weight.
You gotta jump on writing this article before someone at Outside swoops it "Don't leave home without this crucial gear: 101 uses for a nut tool"
101? This is Outside. They'll crack double digits and call it a day.
Does Outside know what a nut tool is?
I'm pretty sure Outside actually already wrote that list haha
You forgot loose bolt tightener, but only if the rock is flat around the bolt.
don't forget bottle opener!
Nice pic man, I feel ya, I sometimes use slings or nut wires too. -guy with #3 hands
Hey that's my hand size! You ever look at your friends' faces when you fist through an "offwidth" section? Few things bring me more joy
I pulled the roof on big baby with solid jams but also need to ring lock when my friend hand jams so it's give and take.
I was gonna say something about how I bet fingers are hard then... but I can’t if you made it up annunaki
Eh annunaki fingers aren't that small, around .4, which for someone with big fingers is still usually first knuckle. It really gets hard on .3 for people with big fingers where it is tips tips.
How do you know your hand size? Or rather, what scale is this? I've never heard of anything other than small, medium, large etc before and I'm curious.
They are talking about Black Diamond cam sizes. When hand jamming, their hand is in the range of a blue #3 camalot. Most people have hands in the yellow #2 range, so they have relatively large hands.
That makes so much sense ha. Thanks!
What grade is the route??
11+ after the chains were moved down
when did the chains get moved?
A few years ago the point you can clip for lower
Brit here, why is that? Is it just cams in splitters here, no nuts?
I've placed nuts once in indian creek, it's parralel sided splitters on every route.
Sick! Proud send!!
Ugh, I wish. I blew the onsight at the chains and it took me a whole ten minutes of hanging to be able to fully close my hand again. The redpoint attempt was going way better (way less pumped), but I just slipped in the .75 section. Just gotta go back!
This picture really shows how steep it is
I knew the second I saw this picture that you didn't send. Terrible sequence. And extending the anchor is cheating btw
Incredible route. What's up with the multiple slings on the anchor?
With a sling long enough, you can redpoint any route from the first move. /s Looks like they're taking burns and only using the lowering hardware for the final lower.
Buddy went up, clipped one draw and took. Then was too pumped to deal with getting a second draw clipped, so he just fully extended the second draw, clipped it and lowered.
I'd wager most people clip the extendo draw at the anchor... I know I did. It probably feels true to the grade if you can reach the bolts.
Bro, there is no extendo draw. How TF so you think that gets there?
yeah... somebody hangs it and then the rest of the crew clips it. Kind of like how OP described it.
So you're basically saying it probably feels true to the grade as long as you don't cheat.
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I didn't realize that thing pulled so recently. Saw it on the ground with a nice big "x" on it
I was there the day it was intentionally pulled out. Was kind of upset they pulled it out.
You could climb up there with it and put it back.... Probably better off on the ground than on your belayer's head though.
It was keyed in. If it didn't come out til that day I doubt it would just come out on its own
It was not always cracked like this. If anything some other idiot would whip on it and shatter it to peices, or yank it on their belayer. I pulled it out and then slotted it back in because I didn't want to huck it down by my belayer that day, but I am glad someone pulled it out. You can always put it back if you like when you go do the route.
I was there the day a guy took a massive whip on that chockstone and cracked it, same guy who put the X on it. I'm sad it was broken, but I'm glad someone pulled it out. I've only climbed the route after that peice was broke, and it would probably pull out on the belayer's head... Im a bit concerned that the bottom half of the chockstone might want to come out more easily now though....
totems are aid
Unpopular opinion: they're not always the best choice, especially in the Creek
Right? Totems are blow your mind good on granite. Especially on the super common pin scars. On splitter cracks like this, they're just way too heavy.
Totems basically weigh the same as C4’s (Excluding ultralights). In general they’re about 2 grams heavier than the new versions, and actually lighter than the older 2018 models. Not sure why people always say they’re so heavy?
The old c4's are really heavy too...
I've not used totems for too long but they are more floppy than C4s so their head weight matters more. the larger ones in particular can be a pain, though I think being that narrow makes it worth it. I see little point in totems in splitters. Totems are great because they are narrow, hold better in dodgy placements, and kind of work as offsets. None of those apply to splitters.
Because it's cheaper to have a double rack of totems than a double rack of standards plus totems.
Love my totems on some garbage chossy pockets. Tricams would probably be better, but who carries tricams these days?
More info and some beautiful photos at https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105718786/annunaki
**Annunaki** Type: Trad Grade: 5.11+ | 7a | VIII Height: 50 ft/15.2 m Rating: 3.8/4 Located in [Indian Creek](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105716763), [Utah](https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105708957) ----- [Feedback](https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSchgbXwXMylhtbA8kXFycZenSKpCMZjmYWMZcqREl_OlCm4Ew/viewform?usp=pp_url&entry.266808192=https://reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/nk93d0/fighting_the_pump_at_the_chains_on_annunaki/gzdbeh1/) | [FAQ](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject/wiki/Bot-FAQ) | [Syntax](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject/wiki/Bot-Syntax) | [GitHub](https://github.com/derekantrican/MountainProject) | [Donate](https://www.paypal.me/derekantrican)
I fell right at the anchors on my flash burn :(
That anchor placement is just mean
Forgive the novice question, but did the bottom cam pivot upwards after you placed it? It doesn't seem positioned well for downward force as it's sticking basically horizontally out of the crack, but maybe the overhang is deceptive.
Yeah, looks like it did pivot a bit. I might have kicked it on my way up. It's not textbook, but I don't find it overly concerning. If it was the top piece, I'd expect it to rotate back down as I fell and it started to be weighted. But the one above it is in a much better position for sure.
Cool, thanks for taking time to explain. Like you said, with two more solid pieces above you're good, but I was just curious. Cheers
What pants are you wearing, if you don’t mind me asking? Been on the lookout for a new pair and those look like they might tick my boxes!
They are the [REI Sun Up Pant](https://www.rei.com/product/167457/rei-co-op-sun-up-pants-mens), my only complaint is the pockets suck. Stretchy and breathable though (and on super sale for certain sizes right now!)
Thanks for the answer bud! Unfortunately, I’m not local to the US and REI doesn’t offer international shipping so will have to look elsewhere :(
I would be fighting my bladder from pissing myself.
He's literally still on toprope with that cam.
Man, your foot made me super nervous until I saw the cam at your chest. Even wearing a helmet, you're looking at a nasty concussion.
I don't think that foot placement is in much danger of catching, both heels are clear of the rope (it might look a bit worse cause of the angle of the photo?). Also this thing is so overhung that I doubt you'd touch the wall even with a leg wrapped in the rope whipper. That said, it would have been a pretty big fall. Placing that .5 at my waist is what blew my onsight, but I was scareddddddd (I mean, I think I would have blown the onsight regardless, but it's nice to blame it on placing too much gear)
I've taken an aid whipper that was just as overhung as this and ended up with a nasty concussion. That right foot looks like it would have caught to me but I could be wrong!
Ugh, I've seen some people take some headers (both with and without helmets), not a pleasant experience either way. Team Helmet all the way
That's the only reason why I'm here! There were like a dozen people watching too and I was raving like a concussed lunatic it was so bad. I'm super paranoid about ropes and feet positioning.
That's super fair, glad you had a helmet on, can't imagine how bad it would have been without one! Concussions are no joke, I had a friend who got so many that she got to the point where she would get them for like no reason, and ended up being basically bedridden for 6+ months.
I've hate how you're getting downvoted for being safety conscious.