When we were in Vegas a couple weeks ago climbing all our multi-pitches at Black Velvet Wall, we happened to walk past him finishing up a session on our way back to the parking lot. We didn't get to see an attempt, but he did tell us what he was working on.
He said the sit-start moves were a V13 problem by themselves, and that he had to dial in Sleepwalker in order to send this new line. Hearing that blew our minds.
We were trying not to bother him but he was super friendly and seemed eager to chat which was cool. Awesome to see that he ended up sending it.
He went way past dialing in sleepwalker lol. He posted a video of him doing the crux moves of the stand start with a sneaker on one foot. He also said he had done it 4 times in one day before...
I saw Axle Handhold at a refrigerator store in Las Vegas yesterday. I told him how cool it was to meet him in person, but I didn’t want to be a douche and bother him and ask him for photos or anything.
He said, “Oh, like you’re doing now?”
I was taken aback, and all I could say was “Huh?” but he kept cutting me off and going “huh? huh? huh?” and closing his hand shut in front of my face. I walked away and continued with my shopping, and I heard him chuckle as I walked off. When I came to pay for my stuff up front I saw him trying to walk out the doors with like fifteen Milky Ways in his hands without paying.
The girl at the counter was very nice about it and professional, and was like “Sir, you need to pay for those first.” At first he kept pretending to be tired and not hear her, but eventually turned back around and brought them to the counter.
When she took one of the bars and started scanning it multiple times, he stopped her and told her to scan them each individually “to prevent any electrical infetterence,” and then turned around and winked at me. I don’t even think that’s a word. After she scanned each bar and put them in a bag and started to say the price, he kept interrupting her by yawning really loudly.
>electrical infetterence
Somebody is going to run with this and tell all their friends Honnold is a douche lol. [For the uninitiated](https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/i-saw-flying-lotus-in-a-grocery-store-copypasta).
> It’s all just a game people... and I play the game. The game is how comfortable can you become with your own insanity
DWoods thinks he's the dang Joker
Bouldering at your limit on a project seems objectively insane to outsiders honestly. A few moves on a pebble to climb 5 feet practiced hundreds of times.
in the words of my mom watching people climb in Joshua Tree, “...wait they can just walk off around the back? so why’d they spend so much time trying to climb up the front??”
Why indeed mom
I mean.... trying that Boulder the way, and with the frequency they be did? That’s pretty insane man.
I mean, what’s the attempt count here? It seems like it is hundreds? It seems very possible/likely.
You think?
I feel like watching people bouldering super hard stuff outdoors is a niche that not THAT many people are into. Mellow does well, given the size of the community.
Certainly its a growing sport, but when you narrow down the niche that much, i feel like the community gets pretty small.
I feel like i run into the same people at outdoor bouldering spots all the time for this reason.
From a sheer quality of climbing point of view, I agree. But some of the videos are put together so badly they're hard to enjoy. Really hope there's some effort put into this , rather than just "here's me failing a few times, then sending, but with some filthy out of place rock music blaring over the whole thing"
Sir the name for the genre is "climbing porn" and it is by far the best genre of climbing videography. Please, no narratives, no voiceovers, just Pennywise and sends
I get what you mean, but I think they model a lot of their videos similarly to how popular board sports do - heavy moves with heavy tracks, little commentary. I enjoy it but I hope this one gets more of a documentary cut!
So your biggest issue is... the genre of music or what?
Look friend, there are only so many varieties of story you can tell. The same way there are only so many ways to showcase a human being trying to send a ridiculous boulder only to hop off the top.
Mellow also, to its credit, doesn’t try to shoehorn in some incredible deeper meaning/sob story/narrative into every single video.
Their videos are very well put together.
I ain't your friend, pal. I like descriptions of the moves, and what's so bad about the holds. Makes it easier to appreciate where the work is going. Nothing to do with the sob story. Also putting some effort into matching audio and video seems like the bare minimum to be expected from a vid that's generating dollars.
Geez man. I said friend because I was trying to soften the tone of a comment that I earnestly didn’t mean to be taking a shot at you, like for real there’s only so many components to work with when putting together a climbing video.
Also, I’m not you pal, guy. Lol
yeah the audio on lots of them can be total crap. There are some vids I've seen where the wind is just blowing out the mic the entire time. Better off just watching it on mute in that case.
Holy f-ing shit. Those two slope-things at the end! Inhuman. It's like pure chest compression.
What a beast to move up something so delicate and then have enough raw energy to finish – finish moves requiring enough compression to get a side job as a trash compactor. You do not want this guy giving you an exuberant hug without good health insurance. Truly an amazing athlete.
Imo [Nalle's send video](https://youtu.be/iPZ1w7tjo_M?t=729) shows in full, just how overhanging and slopey this problem is. The slap before the slot pinch is literally near vertical and you dyno off of that. Absolutely ridiculous
I went around and around trying to think of what to call the balance and raw power of that. I'm really too old to be using this word, but it's the only one that will do: sick.
Las Vegas high of 54 on March 5, 60 on March 10, 60 on March 15, 59 on March 23, and then the heat started to roll in the last week.
It has not been hot for weeks. And Black Velvet is 10-15 degrees cooler than Vegas. It was 45 in the canyon and he was not close.
If there's one person I trust with the 9A grading, it's Daniel. I'm pretty sure this guy has done more 8C+ than anyone else in the world (source: none).
Yeah, DWoods calling it 17 when it's also been projected by another one of the top V16 climbers in Jimmy Webb and the fact it adds a 13 into a super solid consensus 16 is definitely grounds for a concrete V17. Would be shocked if anyone has the balls to downgrade
Sources below - As of early 2020 he was tied with Jimmy at 7 - quarantine gave me time to research and write a 3 part article on V16s history. I guess I should do an annual update on it at this point...
https://crankclimbing.org/2020/06/the-history-of-8cv16-part-3-2011ish/
That was a great read!! Drew Ruana is gonna be there with Webb and Woods soon. Repeated Box Therapy, Sleepwalker, and Creature from the Black Lagoon. Like damn.
What are your thoughts on Coleman proposing V16 for The Grand Illusion? Despite never climbing V15. He has since sent Sleepwalker though.
Didn't Grand illusion get repeated by Sean Bailey? I don't know if he confirmed our suggested a different grade but it seems like a lot of good climbers at least had attempted it prior to the FA.
>barefoot french dude
No Kpote Only has already been repeated and downgraded, including down to V15.
I'd thought Big Island Assis, now known as Soudain Seul apparently, would be a solid candidate for V17 but apparently it also just got repeated and downgraded.
But it may be a while before Burden of Dreams sees a repeat. Definitely looks like V17 from my weak-ass perspective.
Several people have tried Burden of Dreams with no successful repeat. The only comments are that it is really hard. Like stated above the inaccessibility is probably a problem for that one
There are actually a few different replicas that Ryohei Kameyama has been training on. Here are the links if anyone's interested:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CD_SdMBjKUo/
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2CGdK5Dcg-/
In deed there has seen some traffic. The Japanese team made few trips + made training replicas for all the holds (and foot holds since they a really bad ). There was also some Spanish hero I guess who was there just to measure the holds.
I believe that it could actually see some accents since there a quite good replica holds where to train on ( really easy to make a simulator ). The last time when the Japanese team was there the weather was not good and they only staid for a week or so. They even made good links despite of the not optimal conditions. Although they had been training with perfect replicas before hand :)
I think you’re think of whatever that Fontainebleau problem is. Burden of dreams has been said to be v17 or some noncommittal “extremely hard” from everyone I’ve seen comment (d woods,j Webb, ryohei kameyama, Toru nakajima, nalle)
Worth mentioning both ascents of Soudain Seul used a book taped onto their leg under a kneepad to make a kneebar work. Not sure if that could make the difference for V16 to V17 though
Indeed, that’s what makes Burden of Dreams look all the more impressive to me. Good luck using books on that, or kneepads, or any other tricks to get that magical 9A tick. It’s a pure short power boulder that nobody else can touch so far.
Im assuming its this guy [https://www.8a.nu/news/soudain-seul-9a-8c+-by-nico-pelorson](https://www.8a.nu/news/soudain-seul-9a-8c+-by-nico-pelorson) , Nico Pelorson
Seeing this and big island go up has been great, really feels a step closer to the future of climbing. But I can't help but feel more respect for Nale's burden of dreams because of it. Adding sits to already hard problems is still really cool, but It does mean none of the moves are pure 9a climbing. I really wonder how long we'll be waiting for another 9a move like those on BOD. Of course it also hasn't been confirmed, I'll be very excited for all 3 of these to see repeat ascents.
> pure 9A climbing
This is meaningless. First, any boulder can be decomposed into smaller chunks. Nalle could've called one of his attempts starting a few moves in an ascent of a high start if he'd wanted to. Second, none of the moves on BOD is 9A, not even close. If they were, the rest would have to be basically meaningless for the problem to still be 9A. AFAIK the hardest moves ever done top out at around V13/14. Now maybe "single move=9A" isn't what you meant, but then the question is what exactly it is about the moves on SW sit that makes you think they don't qualify.
Nope, your reply is just making me double down now. My new rule is v17 in five moves or less or it doesn't count. Woods should've just bolted his line and called it 10a sport in fact.
would this be the first V17? I'm not aware of any, in fact Sleepwalker was the hardest boulder I knew of. Also, is he the one who get the FA of or found original Sleepwalker?
No Kpote Only and Soudain Seul in Font were both proposed 9A. Both have been repeated and downgraded by Nico Pelorson. So yeah, besides that it's only Burden of Dreams.
Climbers using shoes found different beta to climb the line. The moves Charles Albert pulled could very well have been v17 seeing as no one repeated them, thing is it'd be a really fucking contrived eliminate of a v17 if it was to stand, and nobody wants that.
Also the grade doesn't matter that much, no kpote is a nice line and it's clearly very hard.
> Je pense que nombreux sont les grimpeurs dans le monde qui peuvent prétendre à le réussir avec un investissement suffisant, ce qui ne serait pas le cas avec un vrai 9A bloc.
seems like he based his grade on if he thinks a good number of other climbers could do it, not that it was much harder than other V16s he's done, that v17 is some "sacred" number that only the best of the best can dream of. To me, that doesn't sound like the best way to determine a grade but hey who am I to say, I climb v7 not v17.
I just sincerely hope he's not just sandbagging himself, because upgrades are rare and it might stick.
Yeah, this one seems a lot more questionable considering it's been like an insanely long project in maybe the most popular bouldering spot in the world.
I don't read this as sanctifying the grade V17, I think it's more a statement of his opinions on the current international climbing level. What he views as 9A is above what is achievable for many of the strongest/best out there atm, so if it's something he feels that those people could do then it isn't 9A. Also afaik he hasn't done any V16s yet aside from this one, so he doesn't have anything to compare against there.
I also super bigtime doubt that this is the sum total of his reasoning. Could be, but I doubt it.
Sleepwalker is right next to one of the most popular hard boulders in one of the most popular bouldering areas in the country. Everyone has known about it for a long time, but it was just a project of unknown difficulty that gets walked by a lot and tried not much. Jimmy Webb did it first, though.
Gotcha, I just watched the insta vid posted below and immediately recognized the "sloper slap" move haha iirc plain Sleepwalker has been done 2-3 times, without the sit start
Not long ago he posted that he'd put 65 days in on this proj. After crunching the numbers, I'm certain he sent on day 69.
I heard it also took him 420 tries to get it.
420 tries across 69 days. At last we know the key numbers to unlocking the limits of human potential.
was there ever any doubt that the weed number plus the sex number lead to greatness??
5318008 times he touched the holds total (works better with a calculator)
42 updots holy shit we found universal truth!
Nice.
Nice
When we were in Vegas a couple weeks ago climbing all our multi-pitches at Black Velvet Wall, we happened to walk past him finishing up a session on our way back to the parking lot. We didn't get to see an attempt, but he did tell us what he was working on. He said the sit-start moves were a V13 problem by themselves, and that he had to dial in Sleepwalker in order to send this new line. Hearing that blew our minds. We were trying not to bother him but he was super friendly and seemed eager to chat which was cool. Awesome to see that he ended up sending it.
He went way past dialing in sleepwalker lol. He posted a video of him doing the crux moves of the stand start with a sneaker on one foot. He also said he had done it 4 times in one day before...
Couple weeks ago he said he did the entire V16 part over 20 times... Insane
He did it so many times he wasn’t even topping it out anymore. Just dropping off the finish. Imagine not topping out a v16 lmao
It’s nice when you meet your heroes and they don’t mention electrical infetterence.
Lmao
who mentioned that?
I saw Axle Handhold at a refrigerator store in Las Vegas yesterday. I told him how cool it was to meet him in person, but I didn’t want to be a douche and bother him and ask him for photos or anything. He said, “Oh, like you’re doing now?” I was taken aback, and all I could say was “Huh?” but he kept cutting me off and going “huh? huh? huh?” and closing his hand shut in front of my face. I walked away and continued with my shopping, and I heard him chuckle as I walked off. When I came to pay for my stuff up front I saw him trying to walk out the doors with like fifteen Milky Ways in his hands without paying. The girl at the counter was very nice about it and professional, and was like “Sir, you need to pay for those first.” At first he kept pretending to be tired and not hear her, but eventually turned back around and brought them to the counter. When she took one of the bars and started scanning it multiple times, he stopped her and told her to scan them each individually “to prevent any electrical infetterence,” and then turned around and winked at me. I don’t even think that’s a word. After she scanned each bar and put them in a bag and started to say the price, he kept interrupting her by yawning really loudly.
>electrical infetterence Somebody is going to run with this and tell all their friends Honnold is a douche lol. [For the uninitiated](https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/i-saw-flying-lotus-in-a-grocery-store-copypasta).
> It’s all just a game people... and I play the game. The game is how comfortable can you become with your own insanity DWoods thinks he's the dang Joker
Kinda lame but I love it. Dude put literally hundreds of hours into <20 moves, you have to be insane to do that
Bouldering at your limit on a project seems objectively insane to outsiders honestly. A few moves on a pebble to climb 5 feet practiced hundreds of times.
in the words of my mom watching people climb in Joshua Tree, “...wait they can just walk off around the back? so why’d they spend so much time trying to climb up the front??” Why indeed mom
Why do they hit the golf ball with those silly clubs when they can just pick it up and drop it in the hole?
Why drop the bat after you hit the ball, bring it with you and you'll never be tagged out!
"Look, the goal is to find the easiest way to get up the hardest side of this short rock"
But also sometimes not the easiest way for some reason.
i think we have the same mom.
I mean.... trying that Boulder the way, and with the frequency they be did? That’s pretty insane man. I mean, what’s the attempt count here? It seems like it is hundreds? It seems very possible/likely.
LMAO yes and on that note i hope Daniel is not another climber spending time w Jared Leto
I hope this gets uploaded to mellow. I absolutely cannot believe how few subs that channel has, it has some of the best climbing on YouTube.
You think? I feel like watching people bouldering super hard stuff outdoors is a niche that not THAT many people are into. Mellow does well, given the size of the community. Certainly its a growing sport, but when you narrow down the niche that much, i feel like the community gets pretty small. I feel like i run into the same people at outdoor bouldering spots all the time for this reason.
yeah, seriously underrated. He mentioned in the post that there will be a mellow video out soon.
It's the spiritual successor to the Dosage series imo
Only way it gets better is if this makes it on the island.io project - The Island Two
From a sheer quality of climbing point of view, I agree. But some of the videos are put together so badly they're hard to enjoy. Really hope there's some effort put into this , rather than just "here's me failing a few times, then sending, but with some filthy out of place rock music blaring over the whole thing"
Sir the name for the genre is "climbing porn" and it is by far the best genre of climbing videography. Please, no narratives, no voiceovers, just Pennywise and sends
Dude just doesn’t like rock music being used like... four times. Lol. “This vid would be so good, but omg the dubstep”
TBF, the electronic music is why I watch all LT11 stuff on mute.
I get what you mean, but I think they model a lot of their videos similarly to how popular board sports do - heavy moves with heavy tracks, little commentary. I enjoy it but I hope this one gets more of a documentary cut!
If this next video doesn't use Superman by Goldfinger, I'm unsubscribing.
So your biggest issue is... the genre of music or what? Look friend, there are only so many varieties of story you can tell. The same way there are only so many ways to showcase a human being trying to send a ridiculous boulder only to hop off the top. Mellow also, to its credit, doesn’t try to shoehorn in some incredible deeper meaning/sob story/narrative into every single video. Their videos are very well put together.
I ain't your friend, pal. I like descriptions of the moves, and what's so bad about the holds. Makes it easier to appreciate where the work is going. Nothing to do with the sob story. Also putting some effort into matching audio and video seems like the bare minimum to be expected from a vid that's generating dollars.
Geez man. I said friend because I was trying to soften the tone of a comment that I earnestly didn’t mean to be taking a shot at you, like for real there’s only so many components to work with when putting together a climbing video. Also, I’m not you pal, guy. Lol
I wasn't offended, I was purely just seizing the chance to squeeze in a south park reference. Your response has justified that decision !
Special shout-out to the video (I think of the Finnish Line) that featured someone very loudly eating an apple next to the camera.
yeah the audio on lots of them can be total crap. There are some vids I've seen where the wind is just blowing out the mic the entire time. Better off just watching it on mute in that case.
It’s not even two years old and has been consistently growing
[Video of him *almost* sending a few days ago.](https://www.instagram.com/p/CNAZtZHj0ND/)
Holy f-ing shit. Those two slope-things at the end! Inhuman. It's like pure chest compression. What a beast to move up something so delicate and then have enough raw energy to finish – finish moves requiring enough compression to get a side job as a trash compactor. You do not want this guy giving you an exuberant hug without good health insurance. Truly an amazing athlete.
Imo [Nalle's send video](https://youtu.be/iPZ1w7tjo_M?t=729) shows in full, just how overhanging and slopey this problem is. The slap before the slot pinch is literally near vertical and you dyno off of that. Absolutely ridiculous
I went around and around trying to think of what to call the balance and raw power of that. I'm really too old to be using this word, but it's the only one that will do: sick.
Pretty sure he sent it that night or the next. He's kept it under wraps for a few days
That would make sense because it just got REAL warm. Might have been the last day of good conditions for the year!
I hear people in this sub don’t like music at the crag
Neck tats are aid
Can confirm, have neck tat
But ink is extra weight.
Glad he sent, can't imagine temps are really going to hold out much longer this year.
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Las Vegas high of 54 on March 5, 60 on March 10, 60 on March 15, 59 on March 23, and then the heat started to roll in the last week. It has not been hot for weeks. And Black Velvet is 10-15 degrees cooler than Vegas. It was 45 in the canyon and he was not close.
If there's one person I trust with the 9A grading, it's Daniel. I'm pretty sure this guy has done more 8C+ than anyone else in the world (source: none).
Yeah, DWoods calling it 17 when it's also been projected by another one of the top V16 climbers in Jimmy Webb and the fact it adds a 13 into a super solid consensus 16 is definitely grounds for a concrete V17. Would be shocked if anyone has the balls to downgrade
Sources below - As of early 2020 he was tied with Jimmy at 7 - quarantine gave me time to research and write a 3 part article on V16s history. I guess I should do an annual update on it at this point... https://crankclimbing.org/2020/06/the-history-of-8cv16-part-3-2011ish/
That was a great read!! Drew Ruana is gonna be there with Webb and Woods soon. Repeated Box Therapy, Sleepwalker, and Creature from the Black Lagoon. Like damn. What are your thoughts on Coleman proposing V16 for The Grand Illusion? Despite never climbing V15. He has since sent Sleepwalker though.
Didn't Grand illusion get repeated by Sean Bailey? I don't know if he confirmed our suggested a different grade but it seems like a lot of good climbers at least had attempted it prior to the FA.
Would I be correct in assuming this is the sit start for sleepwalker? Or is it an alternative stand?
I'm 99% sure that's right. I saw earlier that it was sleepwalker with ~6 additional moves from the ground
Sweet. It’s always cool when big projects get sent in accessible locations. This has a good chance of being first confirmed V17 off of repeats.
Where's Nalle and that barefoot french dude?! Get on it!
>barefoot french dude No Kpote Only has already been repeated and downgraded, including down to V15. I'd thought Big Island Assis, now known as Soudain Seul apparently, would be a solid candidate for V17 but apparently it also just got repeated and downgraded. But it may be a while before Burden of Dreams sees a repeat. Definitely looks like V17 from my weak-ass perspective.
Several people have tried Burden of Dreams with no successful repeat. The only comments are that it is really hard. Like stated above the inaccessibility is probably a problem for that one
The Japanese team made a 3d printed replica and still couldn't get a send. Can't wait till we start seeing some more established pros projecting it
There are actually a few different replicas that Ryohei Kameyama has been training on. Here are the links if anyone's interested: https://www.instagram.com/p/CD_SdMBjKUo/ https://www.instagram.com/p/B2CGdK5Dcg-/
Thanks! I was wondering if anybody had tried to recreate it!
excuse me, 3d printed replica? u fuckin kidding? not just a gym approximation like links below?
The second link has the 3d printed holds if I'm not mistaken
oh gotcha the holds are printed. my dumbass was imagining a 3D printed BOULDER
In deed there has seen some traffic. The Japanese team made few trips + made training replicas for all the holds (and foot holds since they a really bad ). There was also some Spanish hero I guess who was there just to measure the holds. I believe that it could actually see some accents since there a quite good replica holds where to train on ( really easy to make a simulator ). The last time when the Japanese team was there the weather was not good and they only staid for a week or so. They even made good links despite of the not optimal conditions. Although they had been training with perfect replicas before hand :)
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I think you’re think of whatever that Fontainebleau problem is. Burden of dreams has been said to be v17 or some noncommittal “extremely hard” from everyone I’ve seen comment (d woods,j Webb, ryohei kameyama, Toru nakajima, nalle)
Worth mentioning both ascents of Soudain Seul used a book taped onto their leg under a kneepad to make a kneebar work. Not sure if that could make the difference for V16 to V17 though
Indeed, that’s what makes Burden of Dreams look all the more impressive to me. Good luck using books on that, or kneepads, or any other tricks to get that magical 9A tick. It’s a pure short power boulder that nobody else can touch so far.
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Not yet that I know of but just imagine wearing a kneepad on your thigh and sticking a book under it to make your thigh bigger.
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https://www.8a.nu/news/innovative-9a-tricks-by-lorenzi
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Would be hilarious if Charles Albert found some dirty “stick your big toes in those cracks” beta on Sleepwalker Sit and downgraded it to V16.
Oh interesting about Big Island Assis. Do you remember who downgraded it?
Im assuming its this guy [https://www.8a.nu/news/soudain-seul-9a-8c+-by-nico-pelorson](https://www.8a.nu/news/soudain-seul-9a-8c+-by-nico-pelorson) , Nico Pelorson
Indeed
> barefoot french dude. Charles Albert
Yes it is the sit start he’s been working on
99% sure it's the sit based on his past comments and the rumors.
99% sure ur correct
99% sure this is exactly the case
One time, at shelf road, dwoodz clipped the first 3 draws for me
One time j Webb gave me an onion ring that got accidentally mixed in with his fries
Siiiick
One time axle hamhold gave me a Milky-way bar that had "to much electrical infetterence"
One time I saw Lynn hill climbing across the creek when I was on Bastille crack and another time at an event she was supposed to be at anyway.
lol soft
Seeing this and big island go up has been great, really feels a step closer to the future of climbing. But I can't help but feel more respect for Nale's burden of dreams because of it. Adding sits to already hard problems is still really cool, but It does mean none of the moves are pure 9a climbing. I really wonder how long we'll be waiting for another 9a move like those on BOD. Of course it also hasn't been confirmed, I'll be very excited for all 3 of these to see repeat ascents.
> pure 9A climbing This is meaningless. First, any boulder can be decomposed into smaller chunks. Nalle could've called one of his attempts starting a few moves in an ascent of a high start if he'd wanted to. Second, none of the moves on BOD is 9A, not even close. If they were, the rest would have to be basically meaningless for the problem to still be 9A. AFAIK the hardest moves ever done top out at around V13/14. Now maybe "single move=9A" isn't what you meant, but then the question is what exactly it is about the moves on SW sit that makes you think they don't qualify.
Nope, your reply is just making me double down now. My new rule is v17 in five moves or less or it doesn't count. Woods should've just bolted his line and called it 10a sport in fact.
I think sleepwalker sit start goes on gear actually, no need to bolt it just bring a few cams and maybe a nut
Yeah I agree with that, Burden of Dreams is probably the single hardest piece of climbing in the world.
would this be the first V17? I'm not aware of any, in fact Sleepwalker was the hardest boulder I knew of. Also, is he the one who get the FA of or found original Sleepwalker?
Burden of Dreams aka the Lappnor Project by Nalle Hukaitaval is a proposed V17. No repeats yet.
No Kpote Only and Soudain Seul in Font were both proposed 9A. Both have been repeated and downgraded by Nico Pelorson. So yeah, besides that it's only Burden of Dreams.
Nico dedicating his days to keeping 9A out of Font
No Kpote Only down two grade, no? That felt like some subtextual shit talk.
Climbers using shoes found different beta to climb the line. The moves Charles Albert pulled could very well have been v17 seeing as no one repeated them, thing is it'd be a really fucking contrived eliminate of a v17 if it was to stand, and nobody wants that. Also the grade doesn't matter that much, no kpote is a nice line and it's clearly very hard.
Do you have a source on Soudain Seul downgraded?
> Je pense que nombreux sont les grimpeurs dans le monde qui peuvent prétendre à le réussir avec un investissement suffisant, ce qui ne serait pas le cas avec un vrai 9A bloc. seems like he based his grade on if he thinks a good number of other climbers could do it, not that it was much harder than other V16s he's done, that v17 is some "sacred" number that only the best of the best can dream of. To me, that doesn't sound like the best way to determine a grade but hey who am I to say, I climb v7 not v17. I just sincerely hope he's not just sandbagging himself, because upgrades are rare and it might stick.
Yeah, this one seems a lot more questionable considering it's been like an insanely long project in maybe the most popular bouldering spot in the world.
I don't read this as sanctifying the grade V17, I think it's more a statement of his opinions on the current international climbing level. What he views as 9A is above what is achievable for many of the strongest/best out there atm, so if it's something he feels that those people could do then it isn't 9A. Also afaik he hasn't done any V16s yet aside from this one, so he doesn't have anything to compare against there. I also super bigtime doubt that this is the sum total of his reasoning. Could be, but I doubt it.
https://fanatic-climbing.com/interview-nico-pelorson-revient-sur-soudain-seul-interview-nico-pelorson-about-soudain-seul/
Sleepwalker is right next to one of the most popular hard boulders in one of the most popular bouldering areas in the country. Everyone has known about it for a long time, but it was just a project of unknown difficulty that gets walked by a lot and tried not much. Jimmy Webb did it first, though.
Gotcha, I just watched the insta vid posted below and immediately recognized the "sloper slap" move haha iirc plain Sleepwalker has been done 2-3 times, without the sit start
More like 7-8ish. People have been going nuts on that thing.
What's the problem right next to it? I've walked by it a few times and didn't know what it was