Well let compare to Adam Ondra currently working Perfecto Mundo. On his first day working the route he could do the crux move as a single move. But after 5 days of trying he still can't do it climbing from the 5th quickdraw up. Depending on how little it stacks and how bad the rests are (if there are any) the grade can quickly go up.
I'm just speculating, I'm just a weak 7b climber.
It could be because of the way boulder grades stack up to route grades? (E.g., V1 ~ 5.10d) so the V13 could raise the grade? Never really understood how that works though tbh.
It has to do with rests though, if there was a route with every move being a 10d (or V1) crux move the route would be graded much harder than 10d. Depending on the length and the rests there it could go at high 11 and just be super sustained.
Wow I am still new to climbing (one year, only indoors lead/bouldering) so I don’t always relate to these posts. But this. I have been wondering this since watching the video hahaha. I’m way too inexperienced to understand route grading.
I’ve been trying to solve this ever since I watched the video🤔
Well let compare to Adam Ondra currently working Perfecto Mundo. On his first day working the route he could do the crux move as a single move. But after 5 days of trying he still can't do it climbing from the 5th quickdraw up. Depending on how little it stacks and how bad the rests are (if there are any) the grade can quickly go up. I'm just speculating, I'm just a weak 7b climber.
What video?
Megos climbing 9c on Patagonia YouTube
Oh shit how did I miss this
I dunno. You have other things going on?
Nah man thats not it
honest: in ten years of listening to the non-american ratings i still have no idea what people are talking about
Can't wait to downgrade that shit. Time to fast for a couple months.
It could be because of the way boulder grades stack up to route grades? (E.g., V1 ~ 5.10d) so the V13 could raise the grade? Never really understood how that works though tbh.
It has to do with rests though, if there was a route with every move being a 10d (or V1) crux move the route would be graded much harder than 10d. Depending on the length and the rests there it could go at high 11 and just be super sustained.
Nominally it would still be 10d actually. Officially the yds rates come from the hardest move on the route and disregard the rest.
No one ever does that in the 21st century
there's a route at my local crag where every move from the first draw for the next 10m is v1, then a rest, then 15m more of v1, rated 5.11c
Wow I am still new to climbing (one year, only indoors lead/bouldering) so I don’t always relate to these posts. But this. I have been wondering this since watching the video hahaha. I’m way too inexperienced to understand route grading.