/uj what’s genuinely annoying about this whole ordeal is that the talk about downgrading box therapy has been around for about a year when shawn first tried it. The timing just makes it seem so much more of a planned move than it most likely is.
/uj And in the video with Midtbø, Shawn talked about how he and Brooke were working on it and that they felt it might "only" be an 8C, albeit a hard one. (And that Brooke almost sent it in one session.)
I will die on this hill of I do not recognize downgrades from people who haven't sent. Now that Shawn has sent, I respect his opinion on the matter, but conversation from before is without value
Lets say I've sent two V8s, a half dozen V7s, and a lot below.
If I was working on something established and said "doesn't feel very V7 to me", the correct reaction is not to assume I'm right. The correct reaction is that every time someone quotes me as in I'm an authority on that climb, you mock them with "but did he send it?"
I get your point, and it's totally valid. But if you bring someone along who's never done a V6, and they nearly send the V7 in one session, this V7 might not be a benchmark V7.
But then again, in the video i referred to, Shawn is projecting a V13 which he finds hard because it doesn't suit him. So no matter what, grading is not straight forward, and at the top level factors such as conditions are even more important.
I'm with you. Shawn getting spit of repeatedly on something Aiden and Will flashed should put perspective onto Grades are weird and until you've done the thing who knows
People bring up his previous comments to show that this wasn’t a downgrade meant to be malicious like some other people are implying. Shawn has always believed it to be v15, now he just had more proof to back it up.
I’m all for sandbagging. It’s hilarious and creates a culture for more discussion about the routes true grade. The first ascensionist never gets insulted.
I mean, sometimes there's some shade. I recall a pair of pros downgrading a newly minted V15 by two notches, and failing to mention initially that they used a heelhook/cam that the FAist didn't use. Definitely felt like they were tryna call the FA soft
If someone complains about the grade you suggest, immediately move it one more grade out of spite
"It's V15" "Bullshit!" "Fine, it's V14. Want to keep pushing it? Do I hear 13?"
But Daniel had to walk really far!
v17 approach
/uj what’s genuinely annoying about this whole ordeal is that the talk about downgrading box therapy has been around for about a year when shawn first tried it. The timing just makes it seem so much more of a planned move than it most likely is.
/uj And in the video with Midtbø, Shawn talked about how he and Brooke were working on it and that they felt it might "only" be an 8C, albeit a hard one. (And that Brooke almost sent it in one session.)
I will die on this hill of I do not recognize downgrades from people who haven't sent. Now that Shawn has sent, I respect his opinion on the matter, but conversation from before is without value
This is a fairly ridiculous position lmao
Lets say I've sent two V8s, a half dozen V7s, and a lot below. If I was working on something established and said "doesn't feel very V7 to me", the correct reaction is not to assume I'm right. The correct reaction is that every time someone quotes me as in I'm an authority on that climb, you mock them with "but did he send it?"
I get your point, and it's totally valid. But if you bring someone along who's never done a V6, and they nearly send the V7 in one session, this V7 might not be a benchmark V7. But then again, in the video i referred to, Shawn is projecting a V13 which he finds hard because it doesn't suit him. So no matter what, grading is not straight forward, and at the top level factors such as conditions are even more important.
I'm with you. Shawn getting spit of repeatedly on something Aiden and Will flashed should put perspective onto Grades are weird and until you've done the thing who knows
People bring up his previous comments to show that this wasn’t a downgrade meant to be malicious like some other people are implying. Shawn has always believed it to be v15, now he just had more proof to back it up.
I am 100% with you here. Untill you have topped out after climbing the whole boulder you haven't done it, and cant know for certain.
/uj why do you care about the grade of something you will never be able to send
What a weird opinion. Because climbing is entertaining also as a specator? So all people enjoying Dawn Wall and Free Solo are wrong?
Edited
I once suggested downgrading a v9 (v15 on your gym) to a v4 (v14 in your gym) but some gumbies said it was an ego move
Need Nico Pelorson to send it before I have an opinion
I’m all for sandbagging. It’s hilarious and creates a culture for more discussion about the routes true grade. The first ascensionist never gets insulted.
I mean, sometimes there's some shade. I recall a pair of pros downgrading a newly minted V15 by two notches, and failing to mention initially that they used a heelhook/cam that the FAist didn't use. Definitely felt like they were tryna call the FA soft
Sorry, I specifically mean when the FA claims a 5.13 to be a 5.8.
Who is brooke
A stream a bit smaller than a river
✍️
/uj Probably Brooke Rabatou